Let's Talk About Sekts

8/13/14 -

If you think that modern German sparkling wine is but an imitation of Champagne, you are partially right. Formal production began only in 1826, and it was indeed a former employee of Veuve Clicquot who was responsible, one Georg Christian Kessler, who transported the concept to Esslingen am Neckar, just outside Stuttgart.

While there is a lot of Sekt that is produced in bulk from lesser grapes that are drinkable only with the addition of sugar and bubbles, we are proud to be featuring Sekts that are made from better base wines, where the nuance of terroir is apparent and the effects of limestone or slate can be detected. These are all made by Flaschengärung, meaning the traditional Champenois method with the secondary fermentation in bottle. The only additions in these examples are neutral yeasts to start the secondary fermentation and a minimal dosage in some cases. The 2012 Knauss Sekt 'Zero' has no dosage and would be classified 'Brut Nature' in Champagne. It has the benefit of being a bit cheaper than most Brut Nature Champagne, despite coming from limestone parcels with every bit as much pedigree.

Also from limestone soils is the Hild NV Sekt made from Elbling, an ancient, rustic vine that dominates the Upper Mosel and much of Luxembourg. Elbling is perfect for Sekt ­-- early-ripening, it comes in with low alcohol and presents itself with delicate fruit and plenty of snap. Elbling grown on the Moselle in Luxembourg has a certain status and market for fine wine as Cremant de Luxembourg, while the same vine just across the border in Germany has sadly been denied the same respect and earning ability. In fact, much of the Elbling from the Upper Mosel is sold off in bulk, often ending up in cheap supermarket wine in Eastern Europe. So it’s all the more inspiring to see Matthias Hild and his son making their chalky, refreshing Elbling Sekt with small returns on their hard work despite the serious nature of their wines.

Besides the noble Hild Sekt, the rest are 100% Riesling, from some of our favorite growers in Germany who are often the subjects of our emails. For those not usually enticed by German wine, these soulful sparklers could be an alternative approach to experiencing chameleon-like Riesling in yet another of its charming forms. Prost! JK