Francois Chidaine's Brilliant New Montlouis: The 2005 Le Bournais

3/16/2007 -

This wine easily competes with the greatest white wines of the world for a much more affordable price. The Chidaine Bournais is just as age worthy, complex and elegant as any Grand Cru White Burgundy, White Rhône or great German, Austrian or Alsatian Riesling. As great Chenin gets older too it has a finesse that is very hard to come by in most white wines.

As we all know by now 2005 is mentioned as an absolutely riveting vintage in the Loire Valley for reds and whites. It has been known to be uttered in the same breath as 1921, 1945, 1947, 1959, 1989 and 1990 by Loire connoisseurs. It was a bit hot but that actually gives the wines a bit more richness without sacrificing any of the crisp acids that Loire Valley whites have to offer and no one...and I mean no one has made better Chenin in 2005 than Monsieur Chidaine. In 2004 Chidaine bottled a brand new bottling from a single parcel called Bournais. The vines are less than 10 years old but the terroir has more in common with Vouvray than it does Montlouis and Monsieur Chidaine does believe that it's his best site in Montlouis. The soil in most of Chidaine's sites in Montlouis is clay and silex but Bournais is comprised mostly of clay and a particular type of limestone called Bournais.

Chidaine is a very individualistic winemaker and practices organic viticulture but it does not say it on any of his bottles as he does not believe in all that hullabaloo. He works his vines the old-fashioned way with his head. These are some of the purest most natural expressions of Chenin you will ever taste

The 2004 was brilliantly detailed and very pure but the '05 is a notch up in every respect. It is fatter, has a little bit more residual sugar, more complexity and is altogether a more exciting wine. It is truly amazing tracking the evolution of the first couple of vintages of a young wine. The difference between vintages can be a revelation. It is similar to the difference between watching your three year old turn into a four year old. Almost not even the same person! Think what this wine will be like when the vines are five years older, ten years older if it is already this good now.

David Lillie's TN: The nose is very high-toned with vibrant tiny red fruits, lemon and a intense sense of ripeness. The palate is full and rich (47 grams of RS) with a beautiful detailed midpalate and finish of lemon and chalk that does not quit