Exciting New Champagnes (and Wines) From André Beaufort!
4/15/13 -
In my early years in wine retail, I sold vast quantities of "brand-name" Champagnes, but I really didn't understand the phenomenon. They mostly tasted like bad wine with bubbles - with some lovely exceptions, of course. Fortunately we now have a choice of superb estate-bottled wines, from properties that work well in the vineyards and with minimal intervention in the cellar, producing real Champagnes of terroir. Some of the most interesting and delicious examples come from André Beaufort, an estate that has been organic since 1971 and produces some of the most distinctive and vinous Champagnes available. These are big, bold, earthy wines based primarily on Pinot Noir, with a larger than fashionable dosage and very long sur-lie aging. Fermentations are with wild yeasts, with minimal SO2 added only at disgorgement. The Beaufort's farming is outstanding - they avoid even the organically approved treatments for rot and mildew, as they can be harmful to soil flora and fauna, prefering to use homeopathic treatments of their own production. They only use fertilizers and natural composts, which maintain humus and stimulate the life of the soil, increasing soil permeability and humidity.
Our tasting with Jaques Beaufort last January was a fabulous experience, including some wonderful surprises that are included in this shipment. We particularly enjoyed the 1998 Polisy Brut, the 2003 Polisy Rosé and the simply superb 1996 Ambonnay Demi-Sec, but all of these distinctive wines are worth trying - bravo to the Beauforts for their great vineyard work and these unusual, powerful and distinctive Champagnes from living soils! (Wines arrive April 10th, quantities are very limited)