2010 Burgundy - Joseph Voillot

6/23/12 -

Some Burgundy tasters are comparing 2010 to 1978 – historically one of the great vintages, with beautiful and graceful wines of exceptional balance. The wines are transparent, which means they really show off the distinguishing characteristics of the different villages and the vineyards within.

2010 is the vintage of the millerandage, or "shot berries" a rare occurrence caused by the weather during the flowering of the grape vines, which in 2010 took place over two and half weeks – much longer than usual. The result is tiny grapes that are packed with flavor, have thicker skins and more concentration,  and there is a depth of flavor to these rare vintages where these grapes predominate. Other quirks in the weather severely reduced the size of the harvest, with some producers only making one-half the amount of wine as they made in 2009.  

An informal survey of a group of Burgundy lovers, taken at the dinner table, produced interesting results when the group was asked to pick their favorite village in Burgundy for red wine. I expected a majority vote for Chambolle, but Volnay actually won. Fortunately we don’t really have to make this Solomonic choice, but we do love good Volnay, and have had inspirational wines from Lafarge, de Montille, and d’Angerville, not to mention the old wines from Pousse d’Or…

Overlooked in this line-up of the best wines of Volnay is Joseph Voillot, whose wines are certainly less well-known in the US, and are not represented in many cellars. Voillot has won our admiration over the past 10 years with excellent wines that can hold their own against bottles from the more famous domaines. Voillot’s wine has great transparency, with each bottling really showing terroir and finesse.  Voillot made excellent 2010's, and they represent good value in this vintage which is already in high demand the world over.