Wines of Northwest Spain: Galicia and Bierzo
The Atlantic-inflected white and red wines of the Spanish northwest are special and unique. In all of the wines we are offering today, there's a lift and sense of freshness that distinguishes them from wines of other regions, and a seam of minerality that connects them to the hills, valleys, riverbanks, and Atlantic coasts of this cool, wet, and very green corner of Iberia. From Albariño to Godello to Mencía (not to mention Mouraton, Sousón, and other lesser-known varieties) these wines highlight the indigenous viticultural heritage of the area, a heritage that dates back to the Romans but was for a long time at risk of being forgotten. Thanks to the tireless efforts of farmers and winemakers in the region, the local grape varieties and traditional styles have returned and are now in full bloom and the quality of wines from these artisan winemakers seems to just improve every year. I'm also pleased that these wines, I think, continue to offer incredible value for their cost. As American wine drinkers face down the 25% tariffs on most Spanish wines, these deeply satisfying wines are still available at fair prices that make them a good choice for drinking with friends and family.
The wines below are chosen to reflect the traditional character of the region: they are not acidified, deacidified, or otherwise manipulated to alter the character of these Atlantic-influenced whites and reds. Acidification is lamentably common in the production of Mencía-based wines, and has perhaps contributed to the perception that the grape yields wines that are light in body or more suited to quaffing before dinner than pairing with the region's hearty, savory, and pig-centric cuisine. While these wines are not typically full-bodied or tannic, they are good matches to rich foods, with acid and herbal qualities to contrast with large meals and rich foods. Simultaneously, the whites of the region, in particular Albariño, are already known for their food-friendly qualities and affinity for seafood. Godello, perhaps somewhat lesser known, shares this gastronomic character and the Godello from Viña Somoza is a great pairing for chicken, richer fish, and charcuterie.
Over the past few months I've been particularly interested in the diverse wines coming out of Bierzo, which sits across the border from Galicia, in the province of Léon. The wines on offer today from Casa Aurora express this diversity. Both are produced in tiny quantities, from a set of miniscule vineyards in Bierzo. Despite proximity, the three vineyards (Poula is a blend of two plots) yield two wines of starkly different character. Germán Blanco works fastidiously and with a light hand to produce these beautiful wines that, together, highlight the diversity of expressions possible in Bierzo. Diego Losada's 2017 "1984" shows another side of Bierzo Mencía: darkly-fruited, mineral, and savory. Beyond Bierzo, the wines on offer today highlight the regions of Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei, Rías Baixas, and Valdeorras, which are all worth exploring in their own right.
-Ben Fletcher
