Three Vintages from Patrick Charlin
8/7/21 -
If Patrick Charlin retired after the 2017 vintage, why does he still seem to be working? Read Wink’s passage in Wines of the French Alps (where she describes him as “the most thoughtful Bugey vigneron”) and you’ll learn he holds his Roussette du Bugey for about three years before release. He might not be working his vines on the slopes of Montagnieu anymore, but his final release hasn’t even hit the New York market yet. In an email to me, he disclosed its name: L’Adieu, or the Farewell. While we’re waiting for his send-off cuvee to arrive, I thought I’d offer a truly rare opportunity, a three vintage vertical of Charlin’s Altesse. These are the final bottles of 2012, 2014, and 2016 from this venerable winemaker. At the end of her profile of Charlin, Wink delivers some advice on the occasion that you come across his wines: “I urge you to snap up what you can.” The market for French wines of the Alps is changing, as demand is skyrocketing, and in a few years consumers will be searching high and low for a chance to secure Charlin's Altesse...
In a recent New York Times article, Eric Asimov tasted the 2014, reporting, “Though it may be six-plus years old, it’s just beginning to flower.” Altesse from Montagnieu, located in the southern part of Bugey, is known for its ability to age exceptionally well - thus Charlin’s practice of holding back his bottles. He’s making sure they aren’t consumed too young, before they develop their special aromas and flavors. “Ten years old is nothing for this wine from a good vintage,” writes Wink.
Wink describes the slope of Montagnieu as south and southeastern facing, rising to a height of 400 meters. "While predminantly on clay-limestone scree," she explains, "it has parts that are very heavy clay; some more friable gravelly clay or marl; other parts rich in fossils; and sections of glacial till - in all a classic combination of of Jurassic and Prealpine soils." Charlin told me that his old vines of Altesse planted to this complex soil are now being tended by Florie Brunet and Adrien Bariol of Domaine d'Ici Là. Also, Yves Duport, a winemaker that we've featured before, rents vines from him. It is wonderful to know that his legacy will live on in the wines of these talented Bugey vignerons.
Patrick Charlin 2012 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu ($36.99)
A hearty, golden color in the glass. On the nose, aromas of dry grass, yellow apple, fresh sourdough, apricot and baking spices. The palate is powerful and complex, with dried pineapple, pear, and savory orange peel. Flavors of green tea, chamomile, and white pepper begin a finish that seems to plump up and extend after each sip, ending with a lovely, sappy, yellow cherry. With air, the structure gains great weight, with wonderfully snappy acidity.
Patrick Charlin 2014 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu ($32.99)
A brilliant, flashy gold in color. A full nose, with lots of fruit: papaya, smashed plantains, and apricot. Above these heartier aromas, there are smells of oyster shell, mint, black tea, and grass. Bold flavors on the tongue, with baked apple, pear, cured lemons and spicy white pepper. The finish is long and hearty, with notes of dry honey, herbs, and salt. Structure-wise, the wine has a great mouthfeel, with wonderful textural “swish,” and a healthy dose of vibrant acidity.
Patrick Charlin 2016 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu ($32.99)
A fresh yellow hue in the glass. The nose here is crazy, in the best way. Crushed yellow apple, white tea, white pepper, almond flour, and lemons. Above those float aromas of yellow flowers and orange oil. The palate is full of tangy apple, zesty pear, and dried lemons, and firm yellow cherries. The finish is long and elegant, with lovely jordan almonds and raw hazelnuts saddled on top a structure of strong acidity, flashy minerality, and a ripe body.
As you can see, there is a lot going on in each of these bottles. They are serious wines and definitely benifit from air. Feel free to decant, fix yourself some cheese and crackers, and follow their development over an evening. On the other hand, I found a wine shop in Oregon that had offered a few bottles of the 2009 vintage months back (now sold out), and they said it was great - so no rush to pop these, either.
Patrick Charlin produced some of the best Altesse ever made during his four decade career, and it is an honor to be able to offer these vintages side-by-side. A package like this is impossible to replicate, so I hope I've conveyed how special these wines are. Thank you to Remy Giannico at Grand Cru Selections for setting all of this up, and thank you again to Wink Lorch for her leadership as Alpine wine enters a new age. Lastly, thank you to Patrick Charlin. Your wines are truly exceptional. David Hatzopoulos
