The Chambers Street Wine Awards: Piedmont Edition!
12/17/2007 -
This has been an incredible year at the east coast Nebbiolo headquarters AKA Chambers Street Wines. More old vintage Nebbiolo has probably passed through these doors than young vintage Nebbiolo. But also wonderful Barbera, Dolcetto, Ruche and Grignolino have passed through these doors.Well enough of this somewhat rambling non-sequential introduction and onto the awards!
The first award goes to the best Current release Barolo and that was tough as so many great wines are in release right now. But to me the best one has to be the 2001 Giacomao Brezza E Figli Barolo Sarmassa. This is a vineyard you do not see that often. When you do see it it is typically produced by Roberto Voerzio and is heavy on the new oak and spoof. Brezza is very traditional and his Sarmassa shines. Only planted in 1985 this lies above Cerequio and is ranked qualitatively by winemakers in the region on the same level as Cannubi. This has an incredible nose with loads of menthol, tar, roses, tobacco and a powerful and rich palate as is typical of this vineyard. Just a baby now but neverthless does not fail to impress.
The second award goes to best Old Release Barolo which was easily the 1967 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo which was ethereal. Leather, smoke, explosive fruit, incredible power allied with elegance and a purity that was awe-inspiring were what made this the winner. Extremely rare wine that we will probably never see again but I was very lucky to taste some. We might have a couple
Now that I have tortured you enough how about the best Old Release Barolo we actually have alot in stock. That is easy too. The 1978 Oddero Barolo is some primal, feral, earthy animalistic wine. This needs hours to open up and express itself but once it does watch out as this is classic heartwrenching stuff. Great now with a decant but will last at least 10-15 years longer. Probably longer than that.
Next up is best Current Release Barbaresco. So I am looking at the shelves and remembering what current release Barbaresco we have and I realize we don't! So for our purposes the best "current" release Barbaresco is the 1990 Produttori di Barbaresco Barbaresco. This does not have any the overripeness of the 1990 vintage as well as having phenomenal structure and ripeness. Still a baby but starting to show some secondary nuance but will easily get better over twenty or thirty years. We have a couple magnums but you need to act fast.
Next up is the best Old Release Barbaresco which was a no brainer. It was the 1967 Produttori di Barbaresco Mocagatta Riserva and it floored me. Here is my note. This wine was fantastic. It's like taking a nice Tod's shoe and liquefying it. This was leathery stuff along with a focused smokiness. The palate also had a very meaty character. Liked smoked prosciutto and bresaola. Plus pure but aged cherries and an intense smokey, leathery earthiness and fanatstic acidity. It was crisp, clean and very focused and really brought the wonderful finish into focus. This was a treat to drink as it was a wine that was perfectly expressing itself at that moment in time. It opened up beautifully in the glass too. The last sip was the best. Too bad we have none left but there is always a chance some might be on the way.
Next award goes to the best Wacky Value Blend and it nearly was unanimous. The 2004 Sella Orbello is a stellar value and is a wine of great character. Here is my note . . . For me it is even more Burgndian than Barolo or Barbaresco can be. Cooler aromas of blue and black fruits along with the bright cherry/strawberry of nebbiolo. Even though this wine is 50% Barbera and only 25% Nebbiolo the Nebbiolo character really shines through especially on the tarry finish. The Barbera gives a suppleness and the acidity is more Barbera themed as it is juicer and more playful than Nebbiolo'c more biting acidity . . .especially when young. The rest of the blend is pretty off the wall with 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Vespolina. The nose is earthy and lightly truffley with tar, roses, minerals and dark cherry fruit. The wine is juicy and fun with lovely acidity and almost Graves-like flavors on the finish with earth, weeds, minerals, tar and cherry fruit. This clearly deserves some heary Italian fare.
The next award goes to the Best Value Nebbiolo and that goes to the 2001 Sella Lessona. From the same winery that brought you our best Wacky Value Blend comes this incredibly pure, deep, bright and rich Nebbiolo. I love this wine.
