Schaefer, Dönnhoff & Adam: Terrific '12s
7/11/13 -
It's that time of the year again! We've been to Germany and tasted the wines, chosen our favorites, and are now happy to offer the 2012s from three shining stars in Germany, Schaefer, Dönnhoff and Adam. The vintage is one to get excited about because it's high in acid with well-defined, mineral-driven wines. Many are comparing 2012 to earlier vintages like 2004, 2002, 1993 or 1975. To us, it's like 2010 dialed back to more-manageable levels or 2008 with a bit more of everything (acid and ripeness). Most importantly, it's high in quality and low in quantity; this means it's necessary to act quickly to get certain wines since the offers are first come, first serve. Despite the low quantities, we are still offering special pre-arrival pricing so the wines are all priced net (non-discountable) and will go back to standard markup when they arrive in September.
Willi Schaefer
It's our favorite address in Graach and this is a perfect vintage for them. Sadly, there's very little Kabinett to go around as the Schaefers felt the character of the grapes was better suited to Spätlese and Auslese. And really, what incredible Auslesen they made; little to no botrytis, just extreme purity, tingling acidity and pristinely focused flavors. We loved them so much we're offering all four! The vintage in a nutshell: the Kabinetten will age, so buy them to drink now and put away and buy them quickly since they'll be gone soon. The Spätlesen are beautiful; quieter and more focused than the 2011s, yet more approachable than the 2010s. Finally, the Auslesen are not cheap, but they are worth it. Don't fear the upper prädikat!
A.J. Adam
Andreas consistently makes some of the strongest across-the-board collections of anyone in Germany. Having tasted through the entire lineup two years in a row, I've been stunned at how high the quality is, from the simplest dry wine and fruity Kabinett, all the way up to the intense, age-worthy GG-style Trockens and the sweetest TBAs. It no longer makes sense to call him a "rising star." He's one of the greats on the Mosel and in Germany and you should be drinking and cellaring his wines! Favorites this year include the Hofberg (GG) and the superb Spätlese.
Dönnhoff
You all know Dönnhoff by now, so I'll just talk about the vintage. The dry wines are taut and mineral with the classic Dönnhoff exotic fruit notes haning out in the background rather than right up in your face. Höllenpfad and Kahlenberg (the estate's newest sites) continue to offer GG-level quality at about half the price. The prädikat wines are also cool-toned and mineral but deeply structured with great potential to age. The vintage here is an about-face from the gregarious 2011s and will reward being given the chance to unfold over time. As for everyone else, it's a low-to-no botrytis vintage so the wines are clean and shimmering.
