Playing Favorites - Domaine Jean Chauvenet in Nuits St. Georges

5/15/17 -

Recently at a Burgundy dinner, someone far more knowledgable than I repeated the truism that Nuits St. Georges is no one's favorite wine. Now, I suppose it's difficult to argue with that as the village lacks grands crus and therefore a bit of sizzle, but I'd be hard pressed to say that any other  appellation has provided more satisfaction over the past few years. As prices have crept (or rocketed) up recently, Nuits St. Georges has stayed somewhat within reach compared to its pricier neighbors in the Côte de Nuits. And there's plenty of terroir to the village, even if the resulting wines are of a sturdier sort.

One of my favorite growers in Nuits St. Georges is Domaine Jean Chauvenet, whose wines are soulful, elegant, and precise. Christophe Drag, son-in-law of the late Jean Chauvenet, farms 9.5 HA of old vines across the village. The grapes are 100% de-stemmed, there is a brief cold soak, and approximately three weeks cuvaison before the wines are put into barrel. There they age for approximately 18 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. The wines are are perfumed, mineral, and show agreat deal of finesse and style, rather than the brute force and power for which Nuits St. Georges is often known. The 2013 premier crus we are offering today offer a broad selection of terroir-expressive Burgundies, ranging from muscular to charming. All deserve space in one's cellar and will make for excellent drinking. John McIlwain