New Arrivals from Arbois: Don't La Loue-se Out

4/17/18 -

In the northeast corner of the France-Comté, the river de la Loue emerges from a cave at the bottom of a worn limestone cliff, then carves through miles of lush vegetation, valleys and villages. It is in this river's crescent bend that the commune of Port-Lesney is cradled setting the scene for travelers, filmmakers, and future winemakers alike. I am indeed referencing Jonathan Nossiter's wine documentary, Mondovino. Heard of it? If you haven't, then rent a copy (but after you read this).

Catherine Hannoun decided to move to the Jura while working as a producer on Nossiter's documentary, according to her U.S. importer. After she helped bring the world of winemaking to life for us, she returned to Arbois to join the natural wine movement. With the guidance of her friend Manu Houillon (of Domaine Overnoy), Catherine gained the confidence and experience to lease some vines and bottle wine under Domaine La Loue. Over the last decade she has carefully pieced together a respectable1.5 hectares of vines in Pupillin and Marnoz (Salins-les-Bains) - a perfect amount, she says, for a one-woman-show.  Each parcel is certified organic and she farms under her guiding principle that vines need "elbow grease," not chemicals. Catherine observes biodynamic methods and plows with horse and donkey, but her winery is equipped with modern tools which help her achieve clean, age-worthy natural wine without the use of sulfur. Her 2016 Trousseau is a lovely example of this. Nervy and bright-fruited, overnight the Trousseau develops complex savory notes that round out the palate, signaling that this could be an excellent wine with short term aging.

Catherine is likely more known for her white wines, which she makes both sous-voile and ouillée depending on the vintage. Her 2011 Arbois Savagnin Cuvée Raphaëlle, a skin-macerated Savagnin, was the first bottling I tasted at Chambers. It was a sleeper among the bottles on the table, showing tight and muted initially so we moved on to other things. When I checked back in an hour later the wine was alive with heady aromas of salty minerals, honeycomb, and ripe tropical fruit. And while we do not have that bottling to offer this time (sorry!) that is the common thread I've found in Catherine's wines - they unfurl with surprising depth when given the time.

We are thrilled to have these wines to share and like many of our favorite micro-domains working naturally in the Jura, we get limited quantities - the bottles here are last of stock and available for pick up or delivery now. 

- Amanda Bowman