Montgueux: A Unique Terroir in Champagne
5/22/12 -
(The valley between Montgueux and Troyes seen from Emmanuel Lassaigne's vines.)
My first stop in Champagne was at Domaine Jacques Lassaigne in Montgueux. I’m not prone to hyperbole, but these wines are excellent. Montgueux is five kilometers from the city of Troyes in the Aube. It’s a unique terroir, and essentially a viticultural island: an isolated outcropping of chalk some distance south of the Côtes des Blancs, yet still north of the Côte des Bars. In theory, this should be Pinot Noir country, but chalky soil prompts Montgueux’s growers to plant Chardonnay, which acts as an ideal conduit for chalky minerality. In fact, Montgueux does not have a history of viticulture and was only planted to vine in the 1960s. Peter Liem tells us that the Chardonnay from Montgueux, with its broad, almost tropical character, was popular with négociants, particularly Piper-Heidsieck. Now, there are a handful of independent growers in Montgueux; amongst them, Lassaigne is the best.
The majority of Lassaigne’s vines are planted across the street from his house overlooking the valley between Montgueux and Troyes. He farms four hectares in total and buys small quantities of grapes from trusted farmers in the village. I saw plant life between the rows and Emmanuel volunteered the information that he does not work with chemicals. To the question “why not become certified organic?”, he replied “the French are masters in the art of paper.” Many growers who work without chemicals prefer to remain uncertified because they resent having to deal with the bureaucracy and pay the fees to be certified in something they’ve been doing for years of their own accord.
In the cellar, Lassaigne vinifies all parcels separately and the fermentations are done in stainless steel, though he uses some oak for “Le Cotet” and “Colline Inspirée” with superb results. Lassaigne adds sulfur at harvest in order to keep the fruit from oxidizing and the juice pristine. Always looking to minimize chemical intervention, Lassaigne told me that they have been disgorging without sulfur at his Domaine for 32 years. Opposed to oenologists and their insistence upon sulfur as a preventative measure, he told me: “we don’t use very much sulfur, and still nothing goes wrong.” The first fermentations are completed with native yeasts and the second fermentations with a neutral yeast strain that imparts no aroma to the wine and promotes a very long, cool second fermentation. This long, slow, cool second fermentation develops fine bubbles, an integral part of good Champagne.
These wines are absolutely stunning - crafted by a perfectionistic and creative vigneron. We encourage you to try all three, the Blanc de Blancs de Montgueux, an expression of Montgueux terroir, Le Cotet, a superb single vineyard, and Colline Inspirée, masterfully blended from Lassaigne’s oldest vines. -Sophie
