Fruits of Tondonia
3/07/12 -
(The Tondonia Vineyard in the Winter of 2005)
Many excellent sources have written exquisitely about the greatness of Lopez de Heredia's wines; let us attempt to add our voice to theirs. Lovers of Rioja are increasingly drawn to the timelessness of Lopez's Tondonia, Bosconia, Gravonia, in part because of continuous and much deserved attention; in part because of the high quality and distinctiveness of the wines. Today we celebrate the landing of two fantastic new releases from the flagship Tondonia vineyard. This famous vineyard is a group of contiguous parcels that meander along the Ebro River, a stone’s throw from the Basque country, at an elevation of roughly 450 meters; Tondonia has produced many of Lopez de Heredia’s top wines dating back to the late 19th century. We are proud to offer two stellar examples: Reserva Blanco from the 1996 – a vintage that the Lopez de Heredia family adores and that they rank ahead of the excellent 1994 and 1995. This white wine is bewitchingly complex with icy-cool, lifted aromas of orchard fruit, and rich, savory flavors that are weighty without heaviness and beg to be paired with game of all sorts and the wild mushrooms that are sure to be in abundance this spring. The second is the glorious 1994 Gran Reserva. 1994 is one of those rare vintages in Rioja that is rated very highly and can sit next to 1964, 1970, and 2001 in terms of its prestige. This Tondonia is exemplary, with beautiful sweet cherry fruit, smoky tobacco, and mushroom, with the kind of invigorating acidity that we have come to expect from this estate. The wine has great presence. The prices are not as modest as they once were, but this wine is discountable as part of a mixed case. It’s a wine that will continue to age gracefully if you forget a few bottles in your cellar. Currently we are the only source for this wine in the States. Quantities are very limited; we have secured 4 cases this time around.