Dreaming of Bonavita Rosato

5/12/17 -

In New York these days nothing presages the arrival of spring quite as much as the wave of Rosés that land in the city, filling wine lists to the brim, and packing the shelves at Chambers Street. One bottle in particular that I look forward to every year is Bonavita's Rosato from Faro in Sicily. Winemaker Giovanni Scarfone farms his 2.5 hectares of vines organically with fava beans planted between the rows, green manure, and only low doses of copper and sulphur used when necessary. His family farm has been operational for generations, but Giovanni has only been selling wine to the public since 2006.  The wine is made from the familiar blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio with the addition of a lesser known variety indigenous to the area called Nocera.  An ancient variety that is particularly adapted to Sicily's warm and dry climate, Nocera is able to maintain acidity late into the growing season, developing ripe cherry fruit without veering towards jammy or cloying sensations.  Fermented with indigenous yeast, the wine sees a quick 12-hour maceration, fermentation in steel, and 6 months rest in tank before being bottled. The result is a rosato with a deep, copper-hued ruby color, rich texture, crisp acidity, with a spicy perfume, fresh fruit on the palate, and a very mineral finish.  The main reason that I crave this rosato over many other wonderful wines is the vast array of foods that it compliments so well: charred kebabs, lamb burgers, green salads with fresh fruit, soft goat or sheep's cheese, tuna steaks, persian rice dishes with herbs and saffron, or lightly spiced Indian food.  The list really is endless, but unfortunately the wine is not; with only 3500 bottles produced it is really a seasonal treat.

- Andy Paynter