Don't pigeonhole Australia!
10/1/2007 -
Australian wine is something that we at Chambers Street Wines are not that well known for. There are many reasons but the main one is probably that the wines really do not ascribe to our philosophy. There is not much natural, organic or sustainable viticulture down there and the wines, in general, seem to be in the big, extracted, sweet, overripe, oaky and concentrated style. We tend to like wines that have finesse, express terroir and can be drunk with a meal. Well, Lyle, while being inspired by Josh Raynolds latest tasting report on Australia in Stephen Tanzers International Wine Cellar, has decided to try his best at putting some great Aussie wine on the shelf here at Chambers Street Wines.
Many people are attracted to Aussie wines due to the high point scores awarded by certain critics. These wines tend to be from Mclaren Vale and/or Barossa Valley and are described with buzz words and phrases like "hedonistic" and/or "gobs of fruit." They are typically dark colored and so sweet as to be more similar to liquefied Hubba Bubba than actually liquefied grapes. Since these wines have been forced down the American consumers throat with huge scores and death-defying descriptions, many people have no idea that another voice exists in Australia. Australia is a big place and the wines from Barossa and Mclaren Vale are made in the eastern and southern parts of Australia which is but a tiny part of viticultural Australia. These regions generally are very hot and dry and that character comes through in the wines. There are of course exceptions like Victoria, on the southern coast that are generally cooler. In northern Victoria (Rutherglen) though, they make fortified wines and massive inky Shiraz that have nothing in common with the less in your face wines from places like Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula & Geelong which are distinctivily cooler. But as the old expression goes "Go west my son." Western Australia is a wonderful place for wines as the climate is much cooler. Such regions as the Margaret River, Peel, Blackwood Valley are very popular in Australia among consumers but there is a lack of exposure of these wineries here. Just look at the website Langton's which tracks the top wines in Australia. It is a different picture over there than here.
Our Australian section is being reworked and the process is not over but we are very excited about our current selection. Below are some blurbs on what we have.
2006 Evans & Tate Sauvignon Blanc - Lovely mineral tinged Sauvignon Blanc wih good acidity and an elegant structure. There is great citrus fruit and balance. This is a great wine and one the best Sauvingon Blanc based wines from Western Australia that I have ever had.
2005 Evans & Tate Cabernet Sauvignon - Cool climate Cabernet from Margaret River for a song. This has wonderful blackcurrant, leather, tar, cassis and mineral notes on the nose. Palate has juicy fruit, crisp acidity, ripe sweet tannins and great complexity. Smells like Bordeaux. Great stuff.
2001 Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon - From an area called the Pyrennes in Western Victoria these wines are some of the top from Victoria if not all of Australia. This is a highly structured wine with pencil lead, violets and minerals on the nose. The palate has sweet restrained fruit , with great concentration and perky acidity. This will last. Take advantage of the close-out pricing!
2001 Dalwhinnie Shiraz - This is their flagship wine. Very perfumed nose of violets and ripe Shiraz fruit. The palate has lovely earthy sweetness to it, ripe, concentrated fruit and sweet tannins. Great structure and has the ability to age and improve for many years.
2005 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon - Big,juicy and ripe with lovely mouthwatering acidity and classic Cabernet aromas of cassis, tar and flowers. Some nice structure is there but hidden under the baby fat for now. This is ideally consumed within 6-8 years of the vintage. Lovely wine. Again from the cooler Margaret River area in Western Australia. For lovers of facts, Vasse Felix is the first commercial winery established in Western Australia.
2005 Vasse Felix Adams Road Shiraz - Nice peppery and juicy shiraz without any of the offensive gobbiness that typically can be found at this pricepoint from Barossa and Mclaren Vale. This is livened up by electric acidity. A very good, real wine and an excellent value.
2005 Leeuwin Estate Sauvignon/Semillon - Lovely, crispy and winsome wine with excellent acidity and structure and a slight waxiness from the Semillon. This is a joy to drink and will surprise you with a few years in the cellar.