Christian Ducroux's 2013 "Exspectatio" - a Great Natural Wine!
6/10/14 -
Christian Ducroux makes some of the most delicious "natural" wines of France on his tiny estate in Thulon, above Regnié-Durette. HIs wines have achieved cult status in France and are almost impossible to find there, but happily Christian gives Chambers Street a nice allocation. Monsieur Ducroux is unique, really existing outside of the "commercial" wine world - a bit unrealistic perhaps but producing magical wines that are a joy to drink! Just arrived are his 2013 Esquisse Rosé, and the 2013 "Exspectatio," the wine formerly known as Regnié.
The domaine is almost entirely self-sufficient, possessing enough animals for fertilizer and vineyard work, and being ony four hectares, Christian is able to perform most vineyard duties himself. He has been working with organic and biodynamic methods since the 1980s and is certified Biodynamic by Demeter. Plowing done with two horses and a bull avoids compacting the soil, and fruit trees and hedges have been planted throughout the vineyards encouraging a healthy biodiversity. To protect the soil, Christian constantly experiments with natural treatments against mildew in order to diminish or eliminate the use of sulfur and copper. Fermentation and aging is in old wood, with zero added sulfites, and alcohol levels are always low due to the high altitude of his vineyards, the absence of fertilizers, and the diminished foliage compared to conventional producers. None of this quite describes the physical and philosophical reality of Christian's estate, which vibrates with green in the herbicided desert of the Beaujolais and which produces such delicious, delicate, complex, "living" wines. They are not for everyone perhaps, and often not for the INAO, so Christian has abandoned the AOC Regnié in favor of Vin de France and has re-named it "Exspectatio." Here's the French label, roughly translated:
"Exspectatio: Third form of time, that which assures the presence of freedom in the time of creation (augustine 5th century). Small domain on pink granite, cepage Gamay. To accompany the plant in its development, the horses Hewan and Kaina participate: in the plowing favoring microbial activity and controlling the natural grasses, in transporting the harvest, in the pulverization of tisanes and special preparations of biodynamic agriculture which encourage the essential rhythms of life. Wine unfiltered, vinified with wild yeasts and without addition of sulfites."
The 2013 Exspectatio is one of those wines whose intriguing complexity makes it seem to disappear, as each taste leads to another and another. The low alcohol and lack of SO2 make it supremely, deliciously drinkable. As Pierre Overnoy said "For us, a natural wine, it's a wine that one wants to drink and drink again!" It may not be a trophy wine on a high-priced list and wine snobs of various varieties may not deign to try it, but all the better, more for us. Christian's vineyard work is among the best in the world and his careful no-sulfur vinifications are beautifully done. We call that great wine!
For those who appreciate natural wines, we've added a few examples from Michel Guignier in Vauxrenard. Also certified biodynamic for many years, M. Guignier works totally without SO2 and produces lovely Beaujolais-Villages, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent, which we urge you to try.
