Austrian Treasures: Kamptal, Kremstal, and Wagram
6/16/15 -
(The Schatzkammer, or 'Treasure Room,' at Schloss Gobelsburg)
Today we take a brief respite from the powerhouse that is the Wachau and head downstream toward Vienna to briefly check in with the most beloved estates of the Kamptal, Kremstal and Wagram. Tucked higher up in the hills and shielded from the warming influence of the Danube, these wines lack the sheer power that characterize most of those from the Wachau, but make up for it with tension and elegance.
Martin Nigl is somewhat isolated from the rest of the estates listed below, both in style and in geographic location, with his Kremstal wines showcasing stern, mineralwasser flavors that soften and gain infinite complexity with age.
Gobeslburg, Bründlmayer and Hirsch are a fascinating trio, offering three different takes on a handful of the Kamptal’s top vineyard sites. Of the three, Bründlmayer tends to be the most robust and stately, with the “Alte Reben” bottlings offering the most mind-blowing experiences. Gobelsburg offers perhaps the most polished yet nuanced wines of the lineup, and Hirsch can be relied upon for the most wild, unpredictable and soulful examples. Fred Loimer’s wines are known for their aromatics and intensity, and the mini-vertical of Steinmassl below is a small highlight.
Heiligenstein and Lamm are universally regarded as the best sites for Riesling and Grüner Veltliner in the Kamptal, and are true Grand Crus; renditions from Hirsch, Bründlmayer and Gobelsburg are all available and beautifully illustrate the mark of terroir that is evident even through the three houses’ distinct styles.
Gobelsburg Alte Reben is a rare artifact – no longer produced, as the grapes now go into the estate’s remarkable “Tradition” bottlings, which are consistently among the greatest produced in Austria each year.
Abutting the eastern edge of the Kamptal are Bernhard Ott’s vines in the Wagram. Ott has only recently gained fame in the U.S. and it’s incredibly rare to come across old bottles of his (we have a total of 5 available). He is a master of vibrant, floral Grüner Veltliner and the red-soiled Rosenberg is his top site.
