Affordable Organic Burgundies from Jane et Sylvain, Champs de l'Abbaye and Jean-Claude Rateau
1/19/16 -
It's fascinating to read about and walk through the famous parcels in the Côte d'Or, learning about the subtle differences of slope, exposure, altitude, subsoil and topsoil that differentiate the great terroirs of Burgundy. It's not so interesting to note that many of these vineyards, largely created by the natural composts of the monks, are now somewhat barren and lifeless, having been stripped of living organisms by decades of herbicides, pesticides and systemic fungicides. Happily the tide is turning in Burgundy towards organic and biodynamic farming and there are many famous (and rather expensive) examples of this return to a more sane and healthy agriculture. And where, other than Burgundy, could this be more important - where the traditional tastevin revealed the subtle differences of terroir in the light and lovely wines, rather than the modern tasting glass showing gobs of fruit? We have nothing against fruit of course, and happily the three estates featured today have made beautiful wines in the last few years, especially in the lovely 2014 vintage, which show gorgeous fruit in an old fashioned style, low levels of alcohol, bright acidity and wonderful expression of terroir.
Jean-Claude Rateau was the first biodynamic grower in Burgundy, certified in 1979. He has always been "under the radar" and we are very happy to have his lovely wines at Chambers Street. His simple Bourgogne Rouge and Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune wines are especially delicious in 2014 and the Prévoles and Réversées and drinking beautifully.
Just arrived from our organic friends Jane et Sylvain in Gevrey are the 2014 Passetoutgrain and Bourgogne Rouge and the 2013 Cotes de Nuits-Villages (from the Queue de Hareng in Brochon). These are beautiful everyday Burgundies, particularly the Bourgogne Rouge which shows wonderful purity of fruit and perfect balance.
Alain and Isabelle Hasard at Champs de l'Abbaye in the Côte Chalonnaise have been farming with organic and biodynamic methods since 1999. (See the excellent article in www.Wineterroirs.com from 2009) The 2014 Mercurey "Brigadières" and the 2014 Bourgogne Rouge show vibrant fruit, bright acidity and great expression of the clay/limestone soils, and the two Crémant de Bourgognes are outstanding vaues that will sell out quickly. So, no big names and no Grand Crus (although the Jane et Sylvain "Fontenys" is only ten feet from Ruchottes) just lots of delcious Pinot Noir from living soils, from vignerons determined to farm properly and truly express their terroirs. -DL
