2016 Domaine de la Pépière "Clos des Briords:" Great Quality in This Difficult Vintage

9/8/17 -

Despite the disastrous frost that hit the Loire Valley in the spring of 2016, our friends Marc, Rémi and Gwenaëlle at Domaine de la Pépière were able to make a small quantity of their classic old-vine cuvée, the Muscadet Sèvre-et Maine Sur Lie "Clos des Briords," which arrives on October 2nd. Although there was not enough juice in this difficult vintage to produce Pépière's special cuvées, "Clisson," "Château Thébaud" and "Monnières Saint-Fiacre," the grapes for these wines were blended with fruit purchased from neighbors to make the "regular" cuvée, this year called "La Pépie." It's an outstanding Muscadet for current drinking and a great success for the vintage.

First produced in 1988, the "Clos des Briords" is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines (all over 60 years old, with a high percentage much older) on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage. Harvesting is by hand, of course, with the grapes transported to the cellar with great care, and brought unbroken to the pneumatic press by gravity. The fermentation proceeds naturally in underground vats for about a month, without the addition of yeasts or sugar, after which the wine spends seven months on its lees without racking. Though we are very happy to see the recent  proliferation of single-vineyard and Cru Communal Muscadets, the Pépière Clos des Briords remains one of the finest wines of the region and its superb value should gain it a place in your cellar each year! Please Note: Due to its growing international popularity, allocations of this wine get smaller every year. Though case quantities are currently possible, we urge those interested to not delay their purchase for too long.

- David Lillie

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(First produced in 2008, this great Muscadet is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines  on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage.) In 2016 and 2017, vineyards in the Loire Valley were hit with devastating frosts causing losses of 50% to 90% in some areas. Muscadet was particularly badly hit in 2016 - our old friends at Domaine de la Pépière lost 85% of their crop but salvaged enough fruit to make three cuvées - "la Pépie," "les Gras Moutons" and a small amount of the classic "Clos des Briords." Despite the frost damage in the region, quality has been very good for the wines produced - lacking the consistency of 2014 and 2015 perhaps but with some oustanding wines featuring vibrant fruit and bright acidities. At Pépiére, the cuvée "La Pépie" benefitted from the inclusion of much of the estate's old vine fruit, and the "Clos des Briords" is excellent, with good ripeness and firm acidity, perhaps similar to a vintage like 2005. The aromas show more white fruits than usual with hints of citrus and lime flower, backed with the saline and mineral notes always present in the aromatics of Briords.  The palate is quite ripe and supple with round white fruits, fresh herbs, lemon confit, almond and white pepper - quite elegant with silky density and structured enough for medium-term aging. The finish is long with lingering citrusy fruits and a nice kick of bitter mineral flavors at the end. Congratulations to Marc, Rémi and Gwenaëlle for producing such a lovely wine in such a difficult vintage. Find some Glidden Point oysters, sole or cod and enjoy now, or hold for 10  to 15 years and serve with crab, langoustines and fish in sauce.  David Lillie