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Chazelles (Jean-Marie Chaland) 2021 Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes
Produced at Jean-Marie Chaland's Domaine Sainte-Barbe, the "Les Chazelles Vieilles Vignes"is from 50 to 80 year-old vines on a south-east facing slope that has never been treated with herbicides, certified organic since 2003. The grapes are hand-harvested and ferment with wild yeasts at low temperature, followed by 10 months aging in cuve inox and old barriques.
Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazees
The Embrazees vineyard is located just below Les Baudines and borders Santenay. Wines from Les Embrazees are fuller and fatter than those of Les Baudines which is cooler and more exposed to the wind. Embrazees has reddish soil from the clay and is full of small stones from the limestone and these qualities really come out in the wine. This wine illustrates the very meaning of terroir in Burgundy; you could use it as a textbook example of classic Chassagne terroir. It is rich, full-bodied, and full-flavored with a spine of acidity that comes out on the finish. This is another lovely 2011 that is open now and will be good to drink while it puts on more weight with age.
Dangin, Bruno NV Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs
What a difference 2 kilometers makes! Bruno Dangin's Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir from organically farmed vines in Molesme, located just beneath the southern border of Champagne's Aube.The limestone rich soils are the same as those of their pricier neighbor to the north. Boasting a fine bead and soft mousse and aromas of red fruits and autolyse, one would be hard pressed to spot the difference. The palate offers great depth, pure pinot fruit, and a suave, layered, persistent finish. This is a great value in bubbles and will grace the holiday table nicely. John McIlwain
Domaine de l'Enclos 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy
From a parcel of 40 year-old vines, this is lovely, satisfying Chablis, with yellow fruit in the attack and mid-palate and forceful minerality in the finish. This has more cut and crispness than the very good 2019. This is a great candidate for mid-term aging (the 2016, backward upon release, grew into a beautiful swan with five years in the bottle). Sam Ehrlich
Domaine de l'Enclos 2021 Chablis
The Bouchard brothers have been on a roll since launching L'Enclos in 2016. The 2021 Chablis is from vines between 15 and 45 years old. It's is a terrific village wine, beautifully racy, all lemon and fennel and very stony. The 2021 is particularly pretty with subtle and complex floral white fruit and mineral notes, vibrant and refreshing....
Domaine de Villaine 2020 Aligoté de Bouzeron
The 2020 Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron has pale yellow green robe. Lemon blossom, jonquil, rainwater, and powdered grapefruit zest on the expressive nose. There is a concentration that denotes ageabilty, and a persistent, mouthwatering finish that is deeply stony and satisfying. Lovely with quickly sautéed scallops and brown butter with braised Greenmarket scallions, but with enough sap to pair nicely with roasted carrots with salsa verde. And yes, the price has crept up, but this is immensely satisfying and given the prices of middling Chablis and village wines is definitely worth a look. Excellent juice. -John McIlwain
Domaine des Crêts 2019 Macon-Chardonnay Climat "En Bout"
This climat holds the older plantings of chardonnay for Domaine de Crêts, and it is situated above “L’Echenault de Serre.” “En Bout” means “at the end,” and it accurately describes the site at the top of the hill where the clay topsoil has been eroded away and what is left is limestone, akin to that found in the Côte d’Or, here in the northern part of the Mâcon AOC. The grapes are harvested later here than in L’Echenault but still typically finishes with about a half percent less alcohol.
Guillemot-Michel 2020 Viré-Clessé Retour a la Terre
Retour A La Terre (Return to the Earth) is named for the parcel and the aging process. The vines come from a piece of the vineyard heavy with clay. They are on average about 65 years old, on a very old strain of rootstock that produces tiny but brilliantly ripe clusters of chardonnay. The wine that results is aged in three large clay amphora, allowing the wine to breathe without the influence of oak. The 2020 is excellent, with juicy white and yellow fruit, and the same feeling of purity and clarity as Quintaine. No shortage of finesse here. Sam Ehrlich
Heitz. A 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Another sliver of a parcel here, right at the top of Charlemagne.
Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers
"Les Boutonniers" is contiguous with Meursault "Meix Chavaux" on shallow soils of clay, high in iron, over the limestone bedrock, usually giving a somewhat lean and very "mineral" white Burgundy. "The 2020 les Boutonniers is one of the ripest white wine in the cellars this year, coming in at a svelte 13.2 percent octane! The wine is beautiful, offering up a complex nose of tart pear, apple, lime blossoms, chalky soil tones, beeswax and just a hint of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and tensile in personality, with a fine core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and a long, zesty finish. I would be inclined to give this lovely wine a couple of years in the cellar and let some of its secondary layers unfurl. Fine juice." John Gilman "View from the Cellar"
Perrin, Céline 2020 Ladoix "Sur les Vris"
The Perrin Ladoix "Sur les Vris" is an east-facing slope in the north part of Ladoix abutting ancient quarries and just below the 1er Cru "Les Grechons." The wine shows a gold or light straw color, with aromas of ripe white and yellow fruits, with earth, citrus and floral notes and a touch of oak. The palate has nice weight and density with pear and peach fruit balanced by firm acids and mineral flavors with a touch spice and bitter lemon in the long finish. "It is a wine whose breadth and weight are balanced by its lovely freshness," say the Perrins. Please decant or open in advance if drinking now, best 2023 - 2028.
Perrin, Céline 2020 Ladoix 1er Cru "Les Gréchons"
The Perrin Ladoix 1er Cru "Les Grechons" is just to the northeast of the Grand Cru Corton-Mourottes. The slope is covered with limestone scree and pebbles - tailings from ancient limestone quarries. There is so little white Ladoix kicking around, I had no reference point. But this was lovely, showing white peach and lime curd, with some spiciness and toasted almond notes. Good mineral density in the finish here, this is good now but will benefit from a few years in the cellar.
Rapet, Père et Fils 2019 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradeux
"The Rapets have been making wine (in Pernand) for more than two centuries and the wines are now very exciting" said Clive Coates in "The Wines of Burgundy." Our yearly tastings with the modest Vincent Rapet are fabulous lessons in un-forced, terroir expressive winemaking. 2019 gave slightly less acid whites than usual, this being a bit riper and softer as a young wine but nicely balanced and showing lovely acid/mineral character. Whites in Pernand often have an ethereal, stony, herbal character overlying the pretty white fruits — in 2019 there's a bit more fat making the wine more immediately accessible. Really lovely white Burgundy at a reasonable price.
Rapet, Père et Fils 2019 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille
Rapet Père et Fils is a long time favorite Burgundy of Chambers Street because they combine terroir specificity with value. While the former is somewhat easier to find in Burgundy than the latter these days, we are delighted to present these wines vintage after vintage because the whites are fresh, mineral, and detailed, while the reds are deftly made, transparent, and cellar beautifully. One of my favorite wines of the lineup is the Pernad-Vergelesses 1er cru Sous Frétille. Of the Pernand-Vergelesses whites, it always seems to capture the energy and mineral pungency of the nearby Corton-Charlemagne with less weight and certainly requiring less patience. With similar geology, but not quite as favorable exposure or exposition, Sous Frétille shows some of the cut if not the scale of nearby grand cru.