Berthaut-Gerbet 2018 Fixin Champs des Charmes

Since they first appeared on our shores a few years ago, the wines of Amelie Berthaut have gathered considerable acclaim. She makes a set of wonderful Fixins, as well as excellent Vosne and a bit of Clos Vougeot and Echezeaux. I have always enjoyed them whenever I have had the chance to taste them. However, until two weeks ago, I had no idea she makes a tiny amount of white wine, from a parcel just at the edge of neighboring Brochon with very white chalky soils. It was a fabulous surprise. This is white Burgundy of poise and class. The aromatics lean towards delicate white flowers and there is a touch of creaminess from the time in barrel (25% new), but minerality is the centerpiece here. It has great stony density, which helps keep the wine feeling cool even in a solar vintage like 2018. This is terrific and while not inexpensive, it is well worth a look. Sam Ehrlich

Chandon de Briailles 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile de Vergelesses Blanc

Chandon de Briailles' bottling of Ile de Vergelesses comes in both red and white and each one is a benchmark expression of the appellation. Pernand is lodged in a combe (a valley) between the hills of Corton and Savigny and stays a couple degrees cooler thanks to a wind that comes down from the north through the gap. The wines are as a result always fresh feeling even in warmer vintages and this 2018 is no exception. The nose and palate are both redolent with lemon peel, fresh ginger and something that feels a bit liked poached pear. But what is really remarkable is the intense minerality - salty and stony and beautifully crisp. This is a wine with real spine  but not at the expense of pleasure. One of the best whites of the vintage that I have tasted and unmissable for fans of serious white Burgundy. Sam Ehrlich

Dangin, Bruno NV Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs

What a difference 2 kilometers makes! Bruno Dangin's Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir from organically farmed vines in Molesme, located just beneath the southern border of Champagne's Aube.The limestone rich soils are the same as those of their pricier neighbor to the north.  Boasting a fine bead and soft mousse and aromas of red fruits and autolyse, one would be hard pressed to spot the difference. The palate offers great depth, pure pinot fruit, and a suave, layered, persistent finish. This is a great value in bubbles and will grace the holiday table nicely. John McIlwain

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2018 Chablis Vendangeur Masqué 1.5L

Domane de l'Enclos 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy

Here's a rarity, a new organic grower in Chablis. Brothers Romain and Damien Bouchard whose father Pascal is a famed negotiant. In 2015 their father sold the winery and passed on his vines to the sons who've built a new winery and begun the process of organic certification. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts and aged in stainless steel and bottled with minimal sulfur. The 2016 Beauroy 1er cru from the left bank of the Serein river is bright, high-toned and redolent of white flowers and sea spray on the nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and nervy with punchy flavors of lemon zest, apple peel, and chalk on a galloping finish. This has great tension between the pungent mineral notes and ripe orchard fruit with a compelling, cool savory herbal notes. The Bouchard brothers are vignerons to watch. John McIlwain

Domane de l'Enclos 2018 Petit Chablis

Historically, Petit Chablis was often sneered at as something that rarely resembled Chablis. However, the leaps and bounds that have been made in the vineyards and the cellar mean that the overall quality of this humble appellation has grown exponentially in recent years. This is certainly the case at Domaine de L'Enclos. The estate is young but the Bouchard brothers have years of experience producing serious Chablis from organically farmed vineyards. The warm 2018 vintage produced especially excellent Petit Chablis. The nose and palate are redolent with lemon, pear, white peach and the minerality that makes Chablis unmistakable even within Burgundy. There is more weight than one might find in cooler vintages and leaves you with a general sense of satisfaction. This is very nice and a tremendous value. Sam Ehrlich

Dominique Cornin 2018 Pouilly-Fuisse

The wines of Dominique Cornin are exemplary white Burgundy. The farming is strictly biodynamic and the wines are made without additions, excepting a small quantity of sulfur. The outstanding farming and an overall percentage of old vines make for wines with terrific freshness even in warm years. Take this '18 Pouilly-Fuissé - in a hot vintage like this, one might expect a wine that feels overly rich and creamy. Instead it's brilliantly delicate, full of lemon zest, baked green apple and chalky stony notes. It avoids the oiliness that can sometimes befall Pouilly-Fuissé, instead with a beautiful lacy fresh mouthfeel. This is quite impressive and an excellent value. Sam Ehrlich

Famille Paquet 2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay

The Paquet family is based in the Maconnais. They have nearly thirty hectares across a dozen appellations, all farmed organically and on the way to certification. This is their entry-level Chardonnay and it is delightful, full of lime and green herbs, with clear mineral tones and good freshness. There is no oak influence at all and no funny business. This is just tasty Chardonnay grown in limestone soils, perfect as we emerge from the ice and snow into  Spring.  Sam Ehrlich

Fery, Jean 2017 Savigny-les-Beaunes Ez Connardises Blanc VV

Goisot, Guihelm & Jean-Hugues 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté

Goisot is perhaps best known for their Sauvignon de St. Bris, considered a benchmark for the appellation, as well as riveting Cote d'Auxerre chardonnays that often outperform wines from neighboring Chablis. The Aligoté often goes overlooked, which is a shame, as it is firmly of a piece with the other wines in the range. The 2019 is  lovely, full of gently ripe white peach,  Meyer lemon peel and vivid white florals. The previous vintage felt oddly stingy compared to this new release but if ever one needed to know that a wine is linked inextricably to its place of origin, what both wines share is a distinct mineral component that I can only compare to chalk dust from a blackboard eraser. While the fruit character of the two wines may diverge, they are still joined by this limestone core. Terrific value here.  Sam Ehrlich

Goisot, Guilhem & Jean-Hugues 2018 Sauvignon de Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula

Estates making serious Sauvignon de St. Bris are as rare as hens' teeth and Goisot sits atop this tiny heap. The appellation, (in the near-vicinity of Chablis) is the only one in Burgundy that permits the planting of Sauvignon Blanc and often gets lost in the ocean of Chardonnay. But when handled right, these can be wonderful, refreshing, salty wines. 2018 was a warm vintage across France and this is a richer style than some previous iterations, redolent with lime curd, pineapple and fresh sage. But the limestone core is what gives this wine its soul. The finish is firm and saline, making this more than a match for almost anything you might be having for dinner. Thinking about a bottle of Sancerre for this evening? You'd do well to consider this instead... Sam Ehrlich

Guillemot-Michel 2018 Viré-Clessé Une Bulle

The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle."  The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince  with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts..  David Lillie

Guillot, Julien (Vignes du Maynes) 2018 Crémant de Bourgogne Extra-Brut Ste. Geneviève

The 2018 Extra-Brut Ste. Geneviève is a superb Champagne method sparkling wine made with Pinot fin, Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté - 50% grown at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes and 50% purchased fruit. The wine shows lovely aromas of white peach and red fruits, spiced pear and honey. The palate is creamy and full, with pear, a hint of red currant and berry fruits, honey, stone and brown spice with fabulous length. This is unique and really lovely - it will be great fun to share this rare wine with friends and family as a special aperitif! David Lillie

Heitz-Lochardet 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres

The undisputed champion of Meursault, a Grand Cru in all but name. This comes vines ranging from 35 to 60 years old, planted intensely stony soils with a base of white marl.

Heitz-Lochardet 2018 Meursault En La Barre

En La Barre is a distinguished village-level parcel of Meursault, abutting the north side of the town. The soils are shallow clay and limestone over bedrock and the vine ages run from 15 to 60 years old. Armand is in good company here, sharing the parcel with Antoine Jobard and Comte Lafon. This parcel produces quite round wines that drink well early but can also be tucked away for five or ten years without worry.

Heitz-Lochardet 2018 Saint-Aubin Travers de chez Edouard

This is from a village-level parcel at the top of the hill, deep in the combe, above St. Aubin. This is the first vintage this wine has been available here.

Jacqueson, Paul et Marie 2019 Rully Blanc 1er Cru Grésigny

Jadot 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles

Joliet 2017 Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Blanc

Was $99.99

Ludovic Bonnardot 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet

Maison Petit-Roy 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Seiichi's Aligoté comes from a parcel in Savigny called "Aux Boutiéres." The vines are just shy of forty years old, planted in soils of limestone and white marl. This is textbook Aligoté, full of lemon, lilies and honeysuckle. There is excellent length on the palate and that cool freshness that comes from planting the right grape in the right place. There is very little SO2  added and no apparent oak influence. A delight. Sam Ehrlich

Maison Thiriet 2019 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Confidence

Manciat 2019 Mâcon Charnay Franclieu

100% Chardonnay. From Jean Manciat's oldest vines, on a gentle, stony slope of clay-limestone soils. Jean considers this to be his finest plot. The hand-harvested fruit is whole-cluster-pressed, naturally fermented and aged on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks--no oak at all here--to feature the fresh, floral, flinty nature of the fruit from this vineyard.

Marcel Couturier 2017 Saint Véran La Cour des Bois

There is a host of terrific growers in Mâcon and Pouilly farming organically these days and Marcel Couturier is one of the best. He is meticulous and hard-working and it is reflected in the wine. La Cour des Bois finds a great balance between green and yellow fruits and a lovely mid-palate spiciness. Like all good white Burgundy, it is held in check by a core of limestone that lends freshness and structure. Sam Ehrlich

Moreau-Naudet 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

Moreau-Naudet 2018 Chablis

This is sourced from vines between twenty and sixty years old and aged all in stainless steel. This is Chablis at its most inviting. It's full of juicy white fruit, peach and pear and feels generally supple and accessible from the moment the cork is pulled. But what is most captivating and engaging is the mineral component here. Chablis is defined by its limestone soils and at its best its character comes through as something I have always identified as "Welch's grape soda." Some people compare it to fennel or licorice, others to something else - it's somewhat nebulous, as tasting stones is not something we do in life. But whatever it is, this wine has it. The finish is stained with this unique expression of limestone, which is what we should ask of it. Outstanding for the price. Sam Ehrlich

Moreau-Naudet 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

"Vaillons" is one of the best-known of the great Chablis sites and rightly so. The hill rises high and steep above its neighbors, looking down over "Les Pargues" and "Forets" to the east, and the wine the site produces has a similar feeling of power and presence.

Moreau-Naudet 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 1.5L

Morey, Pierre 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

From two parcels just outside the Meursault appellation borders, the wines here are on average fifty years old. Year after year, this always consistently lovely and age-worthy.

Morey-Blanc 2018 Saint Romain Sous le Chateau

Was $89.99    

Pataille, Sylvain 2019 Marsannay Aligote

The potential of Aligoté in the hands of talented growers has become increasingly clear in recent years and Sylvain Pataille has definitely helped lead the charge. Sourced from two parcels in Marsannay, this 2019 is a textbook example of the best of the variety, full of lemon, honeysuckle and pungent sea spray aromas and flavors. The wine is bright with acidity and the energy and freshness that characterizes Sylvain's wines. Delicious. Sam Ehrlich

Rateau 2019 Côte de Beaune La Grande Chatelaine

About a kilometer or two northwest of the Beaune 1er Crus, La Grande Chatelaine is a cooler site on the Montagne de Beaune with soils comprised of gravel and clay over limestone. Stone fruit and pear skin, white flowers and wet stone on the nose. Bright and fresh aromatically. The mid-weight palate is racy but full and dense due to the low yields  of 2019,  with fresh orchard fruit and lemon oil flavors, dancing astride sapid herbal notes with a clinging stoniness on the long, mouthwatering, expansive finish. Serve wth seared scallops, halibut or other full-flavored fish. This is lovely ripe and vibrant Chardonnay from a unique vineyard site - drink over the next 5 to 8 years.

Rateau 2019 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc (Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc)

Jean-Claude Rateau makes lovely Biodynamic wines in the Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune in his east-facing vineyard of clay/limestone and marne soils.  In the dry, hot 2019 vintage, yields were extremely low so Jean-Claude combined his Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc into this cuvee which is quite round and lucious showing floral aromas with ripe pear, apple and spice with hints of citrus and almond. The palate is rounder and more ripe than usual, but perfectly balanced with pear, citrus and stone flavors, with terrific length and firm acidity. This food friendly wine will accompany everything from oysters and grilled seafood to roast chicken and mild cheeses. Delicious now or cellar for 5 to 8 years. This is a delightful Burgundy and a great value!  David Lillie

Rougeot, Pierre Henri 2018 Meursault Sous la Velle

Pierre-Henri Rougeot is a name most Burgundy lovers don't yet know. I suspect this will not remain the case much longer. These are Burgundies of poise and elegance, farmed and made with great care and conviction. Certified organic in 2020 but farming that way since 2012. This village Meursault comes from a vineyard at the foot of the village with a variety of soil types - a bit more clay at the north end and more limestone and small stones further south. The resulting wine is one of great balance, with crisp white fruit and citrus, some spice in the mid-palate and good length and freshness, particularly for a warm vintage like 2018. Bottled with no sulfur, this is extremely good for the level and for the price. Sam Ehrlich

Rougeot, Pierre Henri 2018 Saint Romain Blanc

Tripoz 2018 Macon Loche Cuvee du Clocher

We tasted a sample of this a few weeks ago and the staff was pretty much flattened by it. The 2018 vintage has been characterized by richness and lush fruit but this seems to defy all expectations. It's brimming with citrus fruit that feel like they were just peeled - tangerine and Meyer Lemon - wrapped around river stones and seasoned with sea salt. The racy texture and acid practically crackle with electricity, almost like great dry Chenin or Riesling. Tremendous.  Sam Ehrlich

Vignes du Maynes 2018 Macon-Cruzille Aragonite

Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old Chardonnay vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, in this warm low-yielding vintage, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2018 Aragonite is not to be missed. 

Vignes du Maynes (Julien Guillot) 2017 Macon-Cruzille Aragonite