Bize, Simon 2018 Bourgogne Blanc Les Perrieres

We are huge fans of the Bize wines and what we have seen of the 2018s so far has us jazzed. The whites are of particular note, considering the warmth of the vintage. They have the poise and freshness that one expects from serious white Burgundy, while still showing the fruit and richness that characterizes the vintage. "Perrieres" is the second of two Bourgogne Blancs that Bize bottles each year and though it sits very close on the hillside to "Champlains," it couldn't be more different. The vines in "Perrieres" are older, the soil very rocky and it always shows spine and crunch in  stark contrast to the richness and plump fruit of "Champlains." The '18 whites at Bize were incredibly successful wines. 

Bouley, JM 2017 Bourgogne Aligoté

Brocard, Julien 2018 Chablis La Boissonneuse

La Boissonneuse vineyard makes up the bulk of Julien Brocard's holdings, at 11 of his 18 total hectares. This cuvée is sourced from 30-year-old biodynamically farmed vines, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in large foudre.

Brocard, Julien 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

The Brocard wines have been staples on the shelves here since they first arrived in New York a few years ago. They are the real thing, true Chablis. Certified biodynamic and aged in a combination of steel and wood, they have the mineral intensity that sets Chablis apart from its neighbors and all other white wines . We tasted this particular bottle a couple of weeks ago and while I failed to write a tasting note, I can say unequivocally that it was a showstopper. We were floored. It's as good a 2018 as I have tasted and fantastically ageworthy. Sam Ehrlich

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

Based in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune with vines in Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, the estate has roots going back to 1834. Claude de Nicolay, along with her brother François de Nicolay, fashion pure, old-school, age-worthy Burgundy. The vineyard work has been organic since the 1980s and certified biodynamic since 2005 with vines replanted with massale selection. Yields are kept low to express the terroir of each vineyard. 

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Île des Vergelesses "La Vie Est Belle"

Chandon de Briailles 2018 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Saucours-Sans Soufre

This is Savigny Blanc from white rocky soils previously planted to Pinot Noir. Claude de Nicolay has been experimenting more and more with no-sulfur winemaking in recent years and as the quality of vineyard work and cellar work has steadily increased, so has the success level of these bottlings. 

Chazelles (Domaine des) 2017 Vire-Clesse Vieilles Vignes

Viré Classé is a privileged location in the Macon that enjoys a fantastic exposure to the sun on a slight slope. This yields wines that have an added weight and complexity compared to your run-of-the-mill Macon-Villages. At Domaine des Chazelles, organic vines with over 50 years of age broadcast dense flavors of golden apple and stone fruit with an invigorating touch of acid. This is a great Chardonnay with concentration and freshness that could age beautifully for years. 

Domaine Billard 2019 Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune La Justice (Chardonnay)

Domaine Billard is not a household name but that doesn't matter around here. They are working hard, farming organically, fermenting with indigenous yeasts and aging the wines using a minimum of new oak. What comes of that work are pure wines that express their place of origin. The 2019 "La Justice" comes from a single parcel tucked up behind Saint-Aubin. The soil is heavy with limestone and the temperature is generally a degree or two cooler than the grander vineyards just to the east. This is beautifully aromatic and leaning to the savory side, full of lemon peel and something like chamomile. On the palate there are more white flowers, green herbs and lemon pith and a feeling of breadth and weight up front that tightens in the finish, leaving a clear stony finish.

Domaine Leflaive 2018 Mâcon-Verzé 'Les Chenes'

Domane de l'Enclos 2018 Petit Chablis

Historically, Petit Chablis was often sneered at as something that rarely resembled Chablis. However, the leaps and bounds that have been made in the vineyards and the cellar mean that the overall quality of this humble appellation has grown exponentially in recent years. This is certainly the case at Domaine de L'Enclos. The estate is young but the Bouchard brothers have years of experience producing serious Chablis from organically farmed vineyards. The warm 2018 vintage produced especially excellent Petit Chablis. The nose and palate are redolent with lemon, pear, white peach and the minerality that makes Chablis unmistakable even within Burgundy. There is more weight than one might find in cooler vintages and leaves you with a general sense of satisfaction. This is very nice and a tremendous value. Sam Ehrlich

Duplessis, Gérard 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains

Lillian Duplessis considers this site as having the greatest potential within his lineup of Premier Cru vineyards and tasting the 2017, one can immediately see why. This wine feels intensely serious and coiled, with very pretty white peach and lemon fruit and just a touch of floral character. It has great length and mineral intensity, and a sea character combined with a sweet richness that reminds me of cooked lobster just pulled from the shell. This is super and will age beautifully. Sam Ehrlich

Duplessis, Gérard 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

Montée de Tonnerre is often considered the greatest of the Premier Crus of Chablis, situated on the same hillside as the Grand Crus, just a stone's throw from Blanchots. It has great exposure and can achieve an extra dimension of density and richness. Case in point, the Duplessis 2017. The fruit character is still very much in the stone fruit and citrus profile and the mineral component feels precise and filigreed. But there is a great sense of weight and breadth in the middle that gives this extra staying power and intensity. This is excellent and should age extremely well. Sam Ehrlich

Duplessis, Gérard 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Les Clos is the sole Grand Cru in the Duplessis lineup and produces wines that will age for many years.  The parcel is less than half a hectare but well situated smack in the middle of the slope, with vines between 35 and 45 years.

Duplessis, Gérard 2017 Chablis Vaugiraut

Vaugiraut is on the left bank of the Serein, south of the village of Chablis and the Grand Cru vineyards above it on the right bank of the river. The south facing amphitheater is protected from winds and exposed to the warmth of the late afternoon sun, both of which assist in ripening. This bottling from Duplessis is unique among their Premier Crus in that it sees no oak: the elevage is entirely in stainless steel. This has a beautiful, exotic nose that shows notes of white peach, dried orange peel, makrut lime, and salty limestone. The palate is structured, but with generous fruit character, displaying white peach and ripe Meyer lemon notes that lead to a very precise, long finish that emphasizes the limestone minerality of Chablis. Truly delicious. Ben Fletcher

Ente, Benoit 2018 Puligny-Montrachet

Fourrier 2018 Bourgogne Blanc

Goisot, Guihelm & Jean-Hugues 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Goisot is perhaps best known for their Sauvignon de St. Bris, considered a benchmark for the appellation, as well as riveting Cote d'Auxerre chardonnays that often outperform wines from neighboring Chablis. The Aligoté often goes overlooked, which is a shame, as it is firmly of a piece with the other wines in the range. The 2018 shows the weight of the vintage without obscuring the distinct character of limestone soils. This gleams white-green in the glass and the nose displays lime zest, under-ripe pear. white lilies and something I can only describe as dust from blackboard eraser. On the palate there is more citrus, white pepper, tarragon and a salty chalky finish. This will make a lovely aperitif and a welcome companion to oysters and clams this summer. Sam Ehrlich

Goisot, Guilhem & Jean-Hugues 2018 Sauvignon de Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula

Estates making serious Sauvignon de St. Bris are as rare as hens' teeth and Goisot sits atop this tiny heap. The appellation, (in the near-vicinity of Chablis) is the only one in Burgundy that permits the planting of Sauvignon Blanc and often gets lost in the ocean of Chardonnay. But when handled right, these can be wonderful, refreshing, salty wines. 2018 was a warm vintage across France and this is a richer style than some previous iterations, redolent with lime curd, pineapple and fresh sage. But the limestone core is what gives this wine its soul. The finish is firm and saline, making this more than a match for almost anything you might be having for dinner. Thinking about a bottle of Sancerre for this evening? You'd do well to consider this instead... Sam Ehrlich

Guillemot-Michel 2018 Viré-Clessé Une Bulle

The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle."  The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince  with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts..  David Lillie

Lamy, Hubert 2016 Chassagne Montrachet Concis du Champ

When I speak with Burgundy growers about their peers and whose work they admire and find inspiration in, the name Olivier Lamy comes up almost without exception. A relentless innovator and workaholic, Olivier makes remarkable wines. He has pioneered a number of viticultural techniques in Burgundy over the last twenty years, including experimenting with high-density planting (up 40,000 vines per hectare) and the adopting of a pruning model traditionally used in the Loire Valley (designed to reduce the amount of scar tissue on the vine and better protect it from wood diseases). While best known for Saint Aubin, he makes lovely Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay as well. Concis du Champs is a parcel at the bottom end of the slope, with more clay, from 15-year old vines and aged in 600-liter barrels, virtually none of them new. From the very small but brilliant 2016 vintage. 

Lamy, Hubert 2018 St Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix

It's not news that I have a weakness for the wines of Olivier Lamy. I seek them out wherever I go, they are always a joy to drink and I'm always excited to taste the new vintage. It makes me happy to report that the 2018 "Clos du Meix" is outstanding. Only the nose really belies the warmth and ripeness of the vintage, hinting more at yellow apple rather than green, with lime and Juicy Fruit gum at the edges. On the palate, the wine is open but taut in the way we have come to expect of this estate. There is great focus, with more sweet lime and stone chalky notes. The finish is detailed and precise, reminiscent of a first-rate Puget Sound oyster. Excellent wine. Sam Ehrlich

Leflaive 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Manciat 2018 Mâcon Charnay Franclieu

100% Chardonnay. From Jean Manciat's oldest vines, on a gentle, stony slope of clay-limestone soils. Jean considers this to be his finest plot. The hand-harvested fruit is whole-cluster-pressed, naturally fermented and aged on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks--no oak at all here--to feature the fresh, floral, flinty nature of the fruit from this vineyard.

Marcel Couturier 2017 Saint Véran La Cour des Bois

Moreau, Bernard 2018 Bourgogne Blanc

Morey, Pierre 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Morey, Pierre 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

From two parcels just outside the Meursault appellation borders, the wines here are on average fifty years old. Year after year, this always consistently lovely and age-worthy.

Morey-Blanc 2017 St. Aubin 1er Cru

Morey-Blanc 2018 Saint Romain Sous le Chateau

Rateau 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Les Coucherias

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Coucherias" is high on the slope on the site of an old quarry and much of the sub-soil is limestone tailings, permitting root penetration and drainage, with a topsoil of mixed clay and limestone "marnes blanches." In biodynamic agriculture since 1979, the vineyard is a south-facing semi-circle—a very warm spot.The 2018 has a bright bronze/gold color and lovley aromas or ripe white peach and pear with exotic citrus and herbal notes. The ripe, deep palate palate shows stone,  apricot, pear and almond flavors with lovely density and a firm core of minerality that lingers in the very long finish. Delicious now, showing the lush fruit of 2018, it should cellar beautifully as well. David Lillie

Rateau 2019 Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune Blanc

Jean-Claude Rateau makes lovely Biodynamic wines in the Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune in his east-facing vineyard of clay/limestone and marne soils.  In the dry, hot 2019 vintage, yields were extremely low so Jean-Claude combined his Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc into this cuvee which is quite round and lucious showing floral aromas with ripe pear, apple and spice with hints of citrus and almond. The palate is rounder and more ripe than usual, but perfectly balanced with pear, citrus and stone flavors, with terrific length and firm acidity. This food friendly wine will accompany everything from oysters and grilled seafood to roast chicken and mild cheeses. Delicious now or cellar for 5 to 8 years. This is a delightful Burgundy and a great value!  David Lillie

Roally (Gautier Thevenet) 2018 Roally Vire Clesse

Domaine de Roally is one of the great estates of the Macon. The original owner/grower was Henri Goyard, who made old-fashioned Chardonnays with a bit of residual sugar, from his superb organically-tended estate on a limestone ridge overlooking the Saone Valley. Discovered by Joe Dressner in 1987, we made a number of visits there until Goyard's retirement in 2000. Sometimes the juice would still be fermenting after 18 months in tank, and a 1989 tasted in 1999 was simply sensational. Gautier Thevenet of the Domaine Bongran took over in 2000 and has happily kept up the quality and style of Goyard. The 2018 is a beautiful wine with aromas of lemon oil, mango, white fruits, spice and honey - really complex and elegant. Lush white fruits on the palate with citrus and minerals. Fabulous length of saline acids, stone and ripe fruit. Superb for current drinking, this should age beautifully for ten to fifteen years. Bravo to Gautier Thevenet! David Lillie

Rollin 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1.5L

 The Rollin family has been making and bottling wines from Pernand and Aloxe since the mid-1950s and today are one of the best addresses in either commune. These are old-school wines made with a minimum of fuss - treating the vines only when absolutely necessary, hand-harvesting, fermenting only with native yeasts and without slavishly relying on new oak for flavor or richness. Their Charlemagne is a true Charlemagne, with vines on both the Aloxe and Pernand sides. This is notable because the two produce wines of such different character, with the south-facing Aloxe parcels contributing richness and the cooler Pernand side adding tension and freshness but each one delivering the intense chalk character  that distinguishes Corton-Charlemagne.

Sainte Barbe 2017 Viré-Clessé La Perrière

 Jean-Marie Chaland owns two estates in Viré (Macon), Domaine Sainte Barbe and Domaine des Chazelles, both certified organic since 2006. The Sainte Barbe "la Perriere" is made from 35 year-old grapes from a half-hectare parcel near Viré on clay/limestone soils, never treated with herbicides. The grapes are hand-harvested and vinified with wild yeasts, the wine ages for 18 months, half in barrel, have in cuve inox. The 2017 shows pretty aromas of pear, apricot, lime flower and stone. There is nice richness on the palate, which is supple and elegant with chalky white fruits, a bit of nectarine, verbena and a hint of oak, with firm acidity, silky fruit and mineral notes in the long finish. This is a stylish white Burgundy that will accompany  any full-flavored fish dish, chicken in sauce and mild cheeses, and it will age nicely for 5 to 8 years.

Tripoz 2018 Macon Loche Cuvee du Clocher

We tasted a sample of this a few weeks ago and the staff was pretty much flattened by it. The 2018 vintage has been characterized by richness and lush fruit but this seems to defy all expectations. It's brimming with citrus fruit that feel like they were just peeled - tangerine and Meyer Lemon - wrapped around river stones and seasoned with sea salt. The racy texture and acid practically crackle with electricity, almost like great dry Chenin or Riesling. Tremendous.  Sam Ehrlich

Vignes du Maynes 2018 Macon-Cruzille Aragonite

Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old Chardonnay vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, in this warm low-yielding vintage, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2018 Aragonite is not to be missed.