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Les Chanlins, a premier cru bordering Volnay, expresses the prettier side of Pommard. A continuation of Volnay Pitures (formerly known as Volnay Chanlins until 2006), the vineyard is steep with more limestone and pebbles rather than clay, producing wines which are typically more generous than backwards.
Historically, the Pierre Morey reds have gotten short shrift. Pierre is one of the greats. He helped pioneer biodynamics in the Cote de Beaune and was always hailed for his whites but his reds often felt a bit stingy and lean. With age they often developed into scintillating wines but patience was always required. However, under his daughter Anne's guidance the wines have become increasingly more accessible and satisfying in their youth, without sacrificing core material. This '19 Monthelie is sourced from six parcels, averaging more than sixty years old, and the vintage character is on full display. The vibrant red berry fruit is mouthfilling and full, with hints of fresh thyme, pomegranate seed and a quiet touch of wood spice. But the intensity and concentration is balanced by really tangy zippy acid, almost like a cherry lime rickey. We tasted this as a team and were totally charmed, putting away the bottle in short order. Sam Ehrlich
Jean-Claude Rateau's domain has been Biodynamic since 1979 and produces lovely light-bodied, old fashioned Burgundies. The 2020 Beaune Les Prévoles (a lieu-dit below 1er Cru Chouacheux and les Tuvilains) shows beautiful ripe aromas of cherry and black raspberry with rose, earth, citrus and brown spice. The palate is chalky, ripe and sapid, showing the density of the 2020s but with lovely brightness and balance, with lush berry fruits enveloping firm acidity and mineral flavors. Really a lovely wine and quite delicous now, full and ripe enough for grilled meats, as well as chicken and pork dishes and cheeses such as morbier, tomme de savoie. This should benefit from a bit of aging but is quite beautiful as a young wine, best perhaps 2023 - 2030. David Lillie
Jean-Claude Rateau makes this lovely, light-bodied Burgundy from a small parcel of 50 year-old vines in AOC Hautes Côtes de Beaune, certified biodynamic, "lyre ouverte" pruning. The 2020 shows a bright red/garnet color, with very pretty aromas of tart cherry and raspberry with hints of rose, spice and violet. The palate is light but sapid, and beautifully flavored with bright cherry, red currant and raspberry fruit supported by fresh acidity. There is excellent length of berry fruits, mineral flavors and citrusy acids in the finish. This is an elegant Pinot Noir to serve cool with chicken and game birds, fish in sauce, grilled pork and mild cheeses - just delicious! David Lillie
Seguin-Manuel has flown under the radar for many years, making really pretty elegant Burgundies in both colors. They farm organically, use a minimum of new oak and produce wines tate spak of their origins. This is an excellent Bourgogne, with understated red and black cherry skin and fruit, a touch of eucalyptus and an intensely chalky, dusty mineral finish, with a little touch of red sherbert. -SE
When it comes to Burgundy, Chevillon is in the hall of fame. The wines may have gotten more expensive, but there is no doubt that the family is still at the very top of the Nuits Saint Georges pyramid. And like every great domaine, the wines are excellent from the most humble appellation to the grandest. Chevillon's Passetoutgrains is a CSW favorite. Always full of vibrant red fruit, white pepper and the kind of black tea and leafy notes that set NSG just a little bit apart from its neighbors. Give this a quick decant when you take the turkey out of the oven to rest and it'll wow everyone at dinner. Sam Ehrlich
This comes from thirty-year old vines around Marsannay and is a relatively new cuvee at Trapet, produced only since 2016. A little quiet just at opening, this came to life magnificently over the course of 45 minutes. Brambly red fruit and spicy notes up front, with gentle suave tannins and plenty of lift and cut from the limestone. This is quite elegant and will age well for the next five to ten years. Sam Ehrlich
From vines between forty and seventy years old, this should be a fairly exuberant expression of Gevrey.
From three outstanding parcels of village-level Morey Saint Denis, including Clos Solon and Chenevery, with vines between 50 and 85 years old. This wine is often easily the equal of many producers 1er Crus.
The Morey-Saint-Denis "Grains Fins" is another new cuvée from Stephane Magnien, first made in 2016, and it's an absolutely delicious wine! It's made from young vines of Pinot Fin, the old smaller-berried variety of Pinot Noir, in the vineyards of "Bas-Chenevery" and "Crais-Gillon" on gravelly soils. There is a 12-month elevage in mostly old barrels, followed by 4 months in cuve inox - only 200 cases were made.
2019 is a superb vintage for Stéphane Magnien and in particular for his Morey-Saint-Denis "Vieilles Vignes," from 45 to 65 year-old vines in "Clos Slon" and "Cognes" on clay/limestone soils. The wine shows deep, elegant blackberry and black cherry aromas, quite floral with mineral and meaty notes. The palate is ripe and dense with blackberry/cherry fruit with hints of earth, citrus and spice, pure, long and well-structured with firm tannins and chalky acidity. Excellent length of black fruits with stone and mineral flavors. Decant to drink now with a nice steak, best to hold three to five years, drink till 2035+ as this will be a superb mature Burgundy
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified Biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2019s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful density and ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and intense with blackberry, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2019 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended!