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The Hasard’s Bourgogne Blanc is made from hand-harvested and certified organic Chardonnay grown on a limestone/clay parcel in Aluze, next to Mercurey. The native-yeast fermentation lasts 10 months in barrel and only minimal SO2 is added at bottling. The 2019 is more fruit-forward on the nose, with aromas of dried mango, pear followed by ripe yellow fruits and river rocks. The palate is mineral, saline, and layered with notes of dried apricot, fennel, white flowers, and stone on a very generous finish. An excellent value white Burgundy that would pair well with oysters, cheeses, or roast chicken with herbs.
"Le Clos des Topes Bizot" is a unique spot, high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru "L'Ecu," facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. Harvested by hand into small crates, slow fermentation (4 to 8 months) with wild yeasts, 15 month élevage in barrel without battonage, 10% new. The 2018 Clos de Topes Bizot was kept on the lees longer due to the ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows floral ripe white fruits, apricot and almond; the palate is rich and expressive with white fruits, pineapple, citrus and mineral flavors that continue in the long finish. This is a delicous and affordable white Burgundy to serve with lobster, shrimp, a full-flavored fish dish and white meats. David Lillie
The Chantal Lescure Meursault is from a tiny parcel called "les Pellands" on deep sandy clay soils over limestone below "Charmes Dessous." The 2018 finished its alcoholic fermentation in August 2019 and was still in barrel on the lees when tasted in January 2020. The wine shows elegant aromas, very "Meursault" with almond, pear, citrus and earth. The palate is elegant and bright with lovely minerality below the white fruits, finishing beautifully with firm acidity. This is a lovely Meursault, unblemished by excess oak, batonnage or sulfur and it's an excellent value as well. David Lillie
What a difference 2 kilometers makes! Bruno Dangin's Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir from organically farmed vines in Molesme, located just beneath the southern border of Champagne's Aube.The limestone rich soils are the same as those of their pricier neighbor to the north. Boasting a fine bead and soft mousse and aromas of red fruits and autolyse, one would be hard pressed to spot the difference. The palate offers great depth, pure pinot fruit, and a suave, layered, persistent finish. This is a great value in bubbles and will grace the holiday table nicely. John McIlwain
Historically, Petit Chablis was often sneered at as something that rarely resembled Chablis. However, the leaps and bounds that have been made in the vineyards and the cellar mean that the overall quality of this humble appellation has grown exponentially in recent years. This is certainly the case at Domaine de L'Enclos. The estate is young but the Bouchard brothers have years of experience producing serious Chablis from organically farmed vineyards. While the 2018 was weightier, the 2019 is a more elegant wine. There is plenty of lemon and ripe green apple fruit and a great overall feeling of balance, with lovely acidity. The minerality is very exposed and becomes more intense as the wine sits in the glass. Excellent for the price and a terrific everyday white Burgundy. Sam Ehrlich
From vines between 10 and 90 years old, planted in limestone and white marl on the uppermost slopes of Bouzeron. Aged in foudre for ten to twelve months, with no lees stirring.
The 2017 Cremant from Dominique Gruhier is 65% Pinot Noir/35% Chard, farmed organically and planted on classic Kimmeridgien soils. The fruit leans towards delicate red berries, with an anchor of limestone in the mid-palate that immediately reminds one just how close Dominique is to Chablis. The bubbles are quite fine and there is no shortage of acid or freshness. An excellent value and a great sub for Champagne without paying Champagne prices. Sam Ehrlich
Lillian Duplessis considers this site as having the greatest potential within his lineup of Premier Cru vineyards. Montmains sits on the left bank of the Seine River, running parallel to several other outstanding 1er Cru sites, including Forets, Butteaux and Vaillons (as well as the heavyweight village cru Les Pargues).
With 9 hectares of vines covering 5 various premier and grand cru sites, Lillian Duplessis crafts some of the most pure and compelling Chablis we have had the pleasure of tasting. All of the vines are planted in Kimmeridgian limestone giving the wines that classic, crunchy minerality for which the region is known.
Do not be fooled by the humble appellation - this is outrageously good. The nose crackles with lemon pith and toasted sesame seeds and on the palate it has great presence and weight. The bright fruit sways somewhere between citrus and crisp apricot and there is terrific mineral intensity. Honestly, my colleagues and I would never have thought this was Hautes-Cotes if we didn't already know. We put the whole thing down in about twenty five minutes and were clamoring for more. Sam Ehrlich ** Arrives Thursday 8/13**
Do not be fooled by the humble appellation - this is outrageously good. The nose crackles with lemon pith and toasted sesame seeds and on the palate it has great presence and weight. The bright fruit sways somewhere between citrus and crisp apricot and there is terrific mineral intensity. Honestly, my colleagues and I would never have thought this was Hautes-Cotes if we didn't already know. We put the whole thing down in about twenty five minutes and were clamoring for more. Sam Ehrlich
** Arrives Thursday 8/13**
From 3 parcels, including the estimable Limousin. **Arrives Thursday 8/13**
We're extremely happy to have the wines of Guillemot-Michel back at Chambers Street! Along with Jean and Gautier Thevenet, and Julien Guillot at Vignes du Maynes, they are making white Burgundies with more depth and minerality than anything comparably priced in the Cote D'Or. The 2017 Quintaine is a gorgeous white Burgundy, showing a brilliant pale gold color and complex aromas of poached pear, almond, candied lemon, kiwi, stone and lime-flower, elegant and quite beautiful. The palate is round and dense with firm acidity, showing cool stone fruits and citrus with caramel, stone and mineral flavors. The finish is long and earthy, with chalky white fruits lingering on the palate. (At a recent tasting, the 1989 and 1990 were showing beautifully, so put a few in the cellar!) Beautiful wine - congratulations to Pierrette, Marc, Sophie and son-in-law Gautier!
The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle." The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts.. David Lillie
Created in 2017, this cuvee is issued from grapes in the "Champ-Rond" vineyard, vinified in amphora of 800 liters. The 65 year-old vines are grafted on "Riparia Gloire de Montpellier" an old root-stock obtained in 1880, giving very low yields with magnificent small grapes, of a deep gold color. The Retour a la Terre presents the exotic notes typical of the domaine with an extra dimension of expression due to the respiration of the amphora. The small grapes of "Champ-Rond" ripen beautifully without a high degree of alcohol - they are picked on the last day of the harvest, and the elevage in amphora gives the wine a great purity. The wine shows elegant floral, white fruit, apricot, lemon and stone aromas. The palate is round, dense and silky with fabulous length. This is a superb white Burgundy that is delicious now and will cellar beatifully for fifteen to twenty years. Highly recommended!
The 2018 Extra-Brut Ste. Geneviève is a superb Champagne method sparkling wine made with Pinot fin, Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté - 50% grown at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes and 50% purchased fruit. The wine shows lovely aromas of white peach and red fruits, spiced pear and honey. The palate is creamy and full, with pear, a hint of red currant and berry fruits, honey, stone and brown spice with fabulous length. This is unique and really lovely - it will be great fun to share this rare wine with friends and family as a special aperitif! David Lillie
Julien Guillot of the Clos des Vignes du Maynes, makes this lovely Mâcon-Villages (100% Chardonnay) from certified organic parcels in Viré-Clessé, Chardonnay and Montbellet, on Bathonian limestone with clay, rich in silica. The 2018 is a fascinating and very natural Chardonnay, showing bright pale gold color and high-toned aromas of lemon zest, white peach, pear, almond and honeysuckle. The palate is dense and supple with white fruit, stone and almond flavors, finishing with citrus and minerals. This is a young wine that will benefit from aeration if drinking now, and will cellar for ten years. 30 mg/l SO2.
A parcel of 25-30-year-old vines planted on a thin layer of clay-limestone over blue clay subsoil. This is extremely pretty, with white fruit on top of quite spicy aromatics. The finish is flinty and bright and there is a generally lovely sense of energy to the wine. The only G-B offering located outside of the Cruzille appellation. Sam Ehrlich
Always a favorite of mine in the Guillot-Broux range, this parcel was abandoned until the family cleared it and replanted it in 1983. The soil is a bit deeper here, anywhere from two to seven meters of limestone and clay. There is more citrus character here than in the other Cruzille bottlings, alongside the hallmark white floral notes that run through all of these wines. The overall sense here is one of intense focus and precision. This is very good wine. Sam Ehrlich
A very old planting of Chardonnay muscaté, which produces quite exotic notes. The vines were all planted between 1936 and 1954, in red marl soils. The aromatics here are very pretty and certainly live up to the variety's reputation—they are rich and musky, a bit like ripe cantaloupe. That said, the feel is quite delicate and there is terrific potential for aging here. Lovely. Sam Ehrlich
Jean-Marie Chaland owns two estates in Viré (Macon), Domaine Sainte Barbe and Domaine des Chazelles, both certified organic since 2006. The Sainte Barbe "la Perriere" is made from 35 year-old grapes from a half-hectare parcel near Viré on clay/limestone soils, never treated with herbicides. The grapes are hand-harvested and vinified with wild yeasts, the wine ages for 18 months, half in barrel, have in cuve inox. The 2017 shows pretty aromas of pear, apricot, lime flower and stone. There is nice richness on the palate, which is supple and elegant with chalky white fruits, a bit of nectarine, verbena and a hint of oak, with firm acidity, silky fruit and mineral notes in the long finish. This is a stylish white Burgundy that will accompany any full-flavored fish dish, chicken in sauce and mild cheeses, and it will age nicely for 5 to 8 years.
From vines just outside Pouilly itself, this sees nearly two years in oak. Apparently in 2019, they had to fight to get AOC status for this. The authorities found "oxidative"notes that they felt rendered it unworthy of an appellation designation. After tasting this wine, I am baffled. This is superb, full fruited with tropical and citrus notes and an incredible mineral thread. There is great intensity and beautiful acidity. Honestly, when we at the store tasted this we were all flattened by it. Don't miss out. Sam Ehrlich
From 25-30 year old vines planted in clay and limestone, this is just a terrific village wine. The nose has lovely peach and floral notes, as well as a touch of toasty reduction. The minerality is palpable here and no shortage of acidity for length and energy. Consider a short splashy decant and watch this wine really come to life, with yellow and green citrus notes and more stone fruit. Sam Ehrlich
"Le Clos des Topes Bizot" is a unique spot with vines planted in 1960, high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru "L'Ecu," facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. The grapes from this high elevation vineyard are harvested late and undergo a short pre-fermentation maceration, aging is in two and three year-old barrels. The 2018 shows high-toned aromas of ripe black cherry and red currant fruit with violet, brown spice, earth and citrus, quite elegant. The palate is dense and earthy with sappy black cherry and black raspberry - intensely mineral with firm acidity, earth and black fruits that linger in the long finish. This is a quite elegant, beautifully balanced and "mineral" Burgundy at a very reasonable price, that will benefit from a few hours open or three to five years of cellaring. David Lillie
The Chantal Lescure Bourgogne Rouge "Les Verduns" is from 45 year-old vines on a soil of "marnes blanches" in this unusual west-facing parcel high on the slope adjacent to Pommard "Les Vignots." Vinification is 100% with whole-clusters giving a firm structure to this very classy Bourgogne Rouge. The wine shows elegant high-toned quite floral aromas of earthy Morello cherry and strawberry with hints of spice, mint and rose petal. The palate is earthy and mineral with saline acidity underlying ripe wild strawberry and red currant fruit. This shows the ripeness of 2018 but with lovely bright fruit and freshness.The finish is long and sappy, dominated by mineral and red currant flavors that linger on the palate. This is not a fruit bomb, but is a very satisfying red Burgundy that will benefit from many hours of aeration or cellaring for 5 to 8 years. David Lillie
Honest Burgundy at this price is an increasingly rare bird these days. From two vineyards in Santenay with EcoCert certification, the 2018 is full and round upon opening, with juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit, baking spices and a touch of cola. But with air, it gains tension and elegance and the Burgundy minerality becomes more apparent. This is very satisfying and will likely improve, but why wait? Bottled under screwcap. Sam Ehrlich
Jean-Claude Rateau has a large parcel in the 1er Cru Les Bressandes on a steep slope facing east with pebbly clay/limestone soils, conducted in biodynamic farming since 1979. The soil is warm and well-drained giving ripe, structured wines. There is a 21-day cuvaison with manual cap-punching followed by 18 months in old barrels.Even with the minimal extraction practiced at the estate, the 2018 Bressandes shows a dense red/black color and lush aromas of ripe black cherry and blackberry, quite deep with sous-bois, violet, graphite and citrus. The palate is dense, elegant and chalky with blackberry, earth, bitter chocolate and minerals with terrific length of black fruits, earth and juicy acidity. Hints of iron, blood and roast meat indicate a very interesting aging potential for this wine. Given the weight and ripeness of the vintage, the wine still seems balanced and frames the copious fruit in ample acidity and tannin. This is a beautiful wine that will give great pleasure in its youth and should be a superb mature wine as well, with a long life ahead of it... David Lillie
From vines grown in the calcareous clay soils of Les Reversées premier cru toward the bottom of the hill in the center of the slope by Les Teurons. This is a bit more delicate and lower in alcohol than Rateau's "Bressandes" but still quite deep and generous in 2018 showing ripe black cherry, boysenberry, notes of cherry pit and earth on the nose. The palate is quite dense but still with nice brightness with ripe black fruits, hints of iodine and iron and soil beneath supple structure. Succulent acidity and savory mineral notes offset the ripeness and lend energy and drive on a rich, palate-coating finish which is very long with elegant black raspberry and red currant fruit. The purity of fruit and earth notes are finely balanced - this is an excellent Burgundy for the mid-term. A fine pairing with braised chicken thighs with mustard, tarragon, and shallots. A great value from the pioneer of biodynamic Burgundy!
When life gives you a few extra bottles of Barthod Les Bons Bâtons, maybe check in on one. 2018 is notable as a solar vintage and there are plenty of examples of blowsy, roasted, and firmly structured wines which can make for tough going, but in many cases there are wines that possess that extra degree of intensity and punch, but without any of the coarseness, weight, or excess of the year. And I am happy to report the Bourgogne at Chez Barthod is far more reflective of energy over mass. The robe has a dark ruby hue, limpid to the rim. The nose is a bit reserved on opening, more inscrutable than muted, but an hour open and things unfurl. This offers aromas of crushed strawberries, warm soft wild raspberry, florals that show a bit of tea rose with notes of wild violet and pastille, underlain by hints of loam, black tea, and spice. The palate is a touch more generous than is customary for the cuvée, but leans more to ripe red fruits than black, and displays a bit more juicy succulence than some years, but has a fine earthy core and sneaky tannins beneath the ripe fruit. The finish is persistent and detailed (oh, there’s that limestone!) and offers enough freshness to summon the next sip. This is a delight and if more exuberant than is typical at the Domaine, it is lovely to drink now and has a nice upside if you can put away a couple of bottles. John McIlwain
Apparently Les Vallerots 1er Cru is a near monopoly of Chantal Lescure on a steep slope in the combe above "Vaucrains" on very shallow stony soils over the limestone at 260m altitude. Aged in approx 30% new oak by Francis Miquel. The nose is initially closed and tight with deep red fruit aromas emerging with notes of black raspberry, plum, cherry pit and a hint of anise.The palate shows deep, dense red fruits with great elegance and energy, a superb combination of fruit and terroir. This will need a long decant if drinking now, best to hold 3 - 5 years then enjoy until 2035+ David Lillie
From vines between forty and seventy years old, this should be a fairly exuberant expression of Gevrey.
This sits high on the hill in Morey, above Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru. The vines are just over 50 years old.
From three outstanding parcels of village-level Morey Saint Denis, including Clos Solon and Chenevery, with vines between 50 and 85 years old. This wine is often easily the equal of many producers 1er Crus.
Pierre Duroché is rapidly becoming an A-list address in Gevrey-Chambertin. Not only does he have terrific holdings but the wines are a model of understatement - carefully farmed and made without any bells and whistles. These Gevrey vines came to him from his wife Marianne's family. The fruit is completely de-stemmed, fermented with natural yeasts and aged in no more than fifteen percent new oak.
From 10 to 50 year-old vines grown on limestone soils (Middle Jurassic!) in the commune of Aluze, Cotes Chalonnaise, certified organic since 1999. This is a lovely Bourgogne Rouge, showing the ripeness of the 2019 vintage, but in a medium-bodied, balanced and bright style that is quite delicious! Vivid aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violet and pepper, with a bright palate of blackberry and spicy red-currant/cherry fruit framed in mineral flavors and firm acidity. Delicious now served cool, it will benefit from decanting or a few years in the cellar as well. DL
Organic since 1997, Alain and Isabelle Hasard produce, pure, vibrant Burgundies at their small estate near Mercurey. The 2019 Clos des Roches is a true Clos of about one-half hectare, known for hundreds of years for the quality of its limestone terroir, facing due south. This is a beautiful Pinot Noir, showing vibrant, deep black cherry aromas with hints of citrus peel and violets with earth and mineral notes. The palate shows lush black cherry and blackberry fruit, quite earthy and dark balanced by bright acidity and with very pronounced saline minerals and heerbal notes. The finish is sappy and long. This is a unique and delicious Burgundy, perfect with pork and chicken dishes, charcuterie and full-flavored cow cheeses. Only five cases for the US. David Lillie
Julien Guillot made beautiful wines in 2018 and this Pinot Noir is no exception, from 3 parces of very chalky soils in the Macon - showing lovey texture, complexity, finesse and freshness. The lovely aromas are of raspberry, blood orange, tart plum, brown spice, earth and tea, for starters. The palate is soft, silky and refreshing with black fruits mingled with earth, citrus, stone and tea with plum and raspberry emerging in the finish. Any lover of natural wine should try this! No added SO2, 100% delicious.
Julien Guillot at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes makes this Mâcon Rouge from many different old varieties of Gamay, including Gamay "teinturiers" with thick skins and dark juice, with no added SO2. The 2018 shows a deep red color with aromas of blackberry, tart cherry, srawberry, black pepper, roast meat, fennel, citrus peel, violet... The palate is ripe and elegant with citrusy black fruits, earth and mineral flavors, chalky and long. "This wine is indestructible" says Julien, and it's obviously built to last. Serve with a farm chicken in sauce, and decant or open in advance, but best to cellar for five or ten years. David Lillie
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2018s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and silky with raspberry/strawberry fruit, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2018 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended! DL
The Vignes du Maynes "Cuvée Auguste" is a superb Burgundy made from massale selection Pinot Fin planted in 1964. The parcel, high on the slope in Cruzille, is on Bathonian limestone with a great deal of calcium carbonate crystal (aragonite) with thin topsoils of clay and silica. Yields of 20 hl/ha, semi-carbonic fermentation, with zero additives, bottled under nitrogen. 2019 is a superb vintage for the Cuvée Auguste with a bit of extra density due to the warm, dry conditions of the vintage. The wine shows elegant aromas of black raspberry and wild strawberry with hints of blood orange, violet and brown spice - really lovely. The palate shows a beautiful melange of blackberry, strawberry and tart cherry with citrus, earth and minerals, very sappy and dense. Elegant finish of earth, stone and red fruits. This is a gorgeous wine, and quite delicious now, but cellaring of ten years or more should be possible. Congratulations to Julien Guillot for this beautiful Pinot!
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified Biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2019s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful density and ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and intense with blackberry, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2019 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended!