Domaine de l'Envol 2018 Alsace Sylvaner Dorfburg

The vines are farmed biodynamically, the grapes strictly selected before fermentation with native yeasts and aging is in stainless steel. The 2018 Sylvaner Dorfburg offers aromas of white peach, cool crushed herbs, pear skin, brambles, and apple blossom. The palate is bright and lively, with flavors of perfectly ripe stone fruit, faint tropical notes, a bracing herbaceousness, with an nervy, mouthwatering finish. The 2018 embodies the cool, verdant charm of Sylvaner, while underlain with enough pebbly minerality and weightless concentration to move it past thirst-quenching to deeply satisfying. This was lovely with pan-roasted chicken atop a ragout of favas, baby artichokes, asparagus and morels, but would likely excel with just-cooked arctic char and spring peas or your favorite triple creme cheese.  John McIlwain

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2017 Alsace Aussitôt Bue

Aussitôt Bue is a blend of Pinot Auxerrois* and Sylvaner, with a small amount of Tokai Pinot Gris, from an east-facing parcel on sandstone terroir. Notes of white melon, lemon curd, and lychee, with a touch of fleshiness on the palate. A friendly wine, and a great aperitif sipper.  -EL*I ask every Alsace producer what the difference is between Pinot Blanc and  Auxerrois, and Hubert had some insight on the matter! As he explained, Auxerrois typically has lower acidity than its close cousin Pinot Blanc, but is known for lovely  aromatics, while Pinot Blanc is greener and less beautiful aromatically.

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2017 Alsace Copains Comme Raisins

This is a skin-contact offering from Hubert and Heidi Hausherr. A blend of Pinot Gris, Sylvaner, Auxerrois, and Riesling, with 21 days of maceration. Because the grapes were left intact (whole-cluster), the tannic structure here is very subtle. Hubert says the Riesling provides pretty acidity, and I believe the Pinot Gris lent color and spice. Of all the Hausherr wines, this is the only one I would recommend drinking in one sitting. It seems to lose it's freshness and lift after several hours, and some bacterial notes emerge. Their still whites, however, are well worth trying over several days!  -EL

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2017 Alsace Jardin Là-Haut

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2017 Alsace La Colline Céleste

Colline Céleste is a wine made from a coplantation of Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris from the Eischberg Grand Cru, which is a south and east exposed vineyard of marl and limestone. The "berg" in Eischberg is Alsatian for "hill" (colline in French) and Céleste is the name of their grandfather.  Hubert explained that the fermentation stopped with 10 grams of sugar remaining, so they waited 5 or 6 months to see if the yeast might finish the job. It didn't change much so they bottled at 9 grams RS. The blend here is dominated by the Gewurztraminer in percentage and aromatics. Lovely floral and white pepper notes, with a long, spicy finish. Though it isn't 100%, if anyone out there likes a good dry Gewurztraminer, this is most definitely worth a try!   -EL

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2017 Alsace Le Sentier au Sud

A blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris from marl and sandstone soils. This wine was a treat to taste over several hours and maintained it's freshness and energy into the second day. Notes of lemon verbena, and stone fruit.  Pinot Gris gives some heft and power but it's very delicate and round. Riesling provides straight acidity and melon fruit. This is a great example of a natural wine that is first and foremost complex and terroir-driven. The detail of it's lack of filtration or sulfur addition is important and noteworthy of course, but it does not define the wine or predict how complete and well-made it is. -EL

Mann, Albert 2018 Alsace Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes

A blend of 75% Pinot Auxerrois and 25% Pinot Blanc from 45-year-old organically farmed vines in calcerous marls with gravel. High-toned on the nose with pretty aromas of apple blossom, peach skin and golden apple. The palate is mid-weight, but brisk with ripe flavors of stone fruit and golden apple with a fine core of flinty minerality and spice on the long and detailed finish. This is lovely stuff and will pair beautifully with lighter dishes and on warm summer evenings. John McIlwain