This is undoubtedly one of the the great white wine vineyards anywhere in the world. "Charlemagne" faces south and west as it wraps around the far side of the hill. The steep slopes and thin soils lead to powerful wines with lots of dry extract and a sense of chalk like few others. The des Croix bottling comes from two parcels of quite old and low-yielding vines, producing just three barrels. In recent vintages David has switched to larger barrels for aging this and is leaving the wine in wood longer, rather than moving it into steel after twelve months as has become fashionable. This is not to develop oak flavor but simply because he feels the longer steel aging has a tendency to constrict the wine before it is really ready. Sam Ehrlich
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