Perhaps the most distinctive in a lineup of compelling Champagnes, Les Arpents Rouges is a single parcel wine comprised Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, grown in clay sandstone soils toward the bottom of the slope in Vandières. The grapes are farmed organically, and aged in barrels without sulfur or ouillage (topping up). The prise de mousse is done with grape must and the wine is bottled without sulfur. The robe has a faint golden hue. The nose is a mélange of red fruit, citrus oil, and savory aromas. The palate is expansive but lively with ripe stone fruit, , salted plum,and orange zest flavors and a compelling umami-rich, undercurrent. This is a distinctly sapid Champagne and the tension between fruit, pungent soil notes, and the almost dashi like character is fascinating and delicious. John McIlwain
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