Maria and Andreas Harm make wines in the Wachau and Kremstal in Austria. Their estate was only started in 2010, so they are definitely a new name in this iconic area, but are already producing beautiful, balanced wines from some famed sites. Vineyards were always farmed organically, with Biodynamic certification coming in 2019, and the wines are fermented with native yeast. Kellerberg is a 15 hectare site of sandy loess over gneiss and quartz, and arguably the most prized site around the town of Dürnstein. The 2015 has the boldness associated with the Kellerberg site, balanced by moderate alcohol (13.5%), low RS and good acidity. It's definitely Riesling, but doesn't scream petrol, has some ripeness, but the mineral finish keeps the wine fresh with lifted notes of crisp orchard fruit as well. It seems from recent tasting that the wine should still have a nice life ahead of it, though it is certainly enjoyable now.
The winery itself is located just outside of the Wachau, so the Harm wines from the region can't carry the designations from the three-tier Vinea Wachau system (Steinfeder, Federspiel, or Smaragd). I suppose this would technically be a Smaragd (top tier), as alcohol % for Federspiel (middle tier) is only from 11.5-12.5. Though I cant find analysis online, residual sugar seems well below 9 grams (the limit for Smaragd), and it's certainly age-worthy, as the 2015 is still youthful from tasting in 2020. -Eben Lillie
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