Goisot is perhaps best known for their Sauvignon de St. Bris, considered a benchmark for the appellation, as well as riveting Cote d'Auxerre chardonnays that often outperform wines from neighboring Chablis. The Aligoté often goes overlooked, which is a shame, as it is firmly of a piece with the other wines in the range. The 2018 shows the weight of the vintage without obscuring the distinct character of limestone soils. This gleams white-green in the glass and the nose displays lime zest, under-ripe pear. white lilies and something I can only describe as dust from blackboard eraser. On the palate there is more citrus, white pepper, tarragon and a salty chalky finish. This will make a lovely aperitif and a welcome companion to oysters and clams this summer. Sam Ehrlich
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