Julien Cruchandeau's stock is rising fast among Burgundy insiders. He has developed a reputation for thoughtful and careful work, in the vines and in the cellar, making wines that ultimately drink far above what one might expect from humble appellations. This 2018 Bouzeron is a case in point. The vines are massale selections from the vineyards of Domaine de Villaine and average more than 60 years old. He vinifies a small percentage in barrel and leaves the rest in tank. The result is shockingly good. The nose suggests lime, with hints of fennel and wildflowers. But listing descriptors is almost beside the point here. What is really notable is the intense sense of structure and minerality - there is great density, almost a chewiness to the material and an intensely chalky finish. There is no shortage of acidity either, even in such a warm vintage. This is fabulous value and not to be missed. Sam Ehrlich
(This is a pre-arrival and will be available for delivery starting Friday).
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