- white sparkling
- 0 in stock
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Low Sulfur
- no discounts
Totum stands for “tout en un, un en tout” (“all in one, one in all”) and it embodies Emilien’s philosophy, trying to marry and blend in one unity an infinity of elements. All his 17 plots and the four grape varieties are used, in roughly the proportion represented in the vineyard : 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 8% Chardonnay and 2% Petit Meslier. The grapes were harvested at the same time in mid-September, pressed and vinified together. 30 ppm of sulfur dioxide was used at press and that’s it. As Emilien did not have any winery at that time, the wine was made at Thomas Perseval. Both fermentations were spontaneous, happening in 228 liters and 400 liters second-hand Burgundy barrels (mostly from Domaine Leflaive). Aging of the vin clair lasted a little less than a year before tirage. Disgorgement happened in the Fall 2019 “à la volée”, with no dosage addition. With a white gold and slight pink hue, the bubbles are tiny yet persistent. The nose is very complex, evolving in the glass over the hour I tasted it the first night, and gaining more layers over the week as did the palate : a first note of rich salted brioche (reminding me faintly of some Savagnin from southern Jura) moving on to hawthorn, quince flower, white raspberry, citrus brine, sea spray. In the mouth, the wine is way more linear and focused than expected, with great tension (you would not guess malo is done), and the same salty finish. The quince and raspberry are still present with pink grapefruit and green almond hints, to develop into a lot of different plants and herbs - cloves, dandelion, vine flower. It is quite a heady wine! Over a week, the palate and effervescence hold very well. I would just say that the finish was a little blurry, but I am putting this on the fact I tasted the wine shortly after it landed. I think this wine - and all Emilien’s Champagnes - deserve some cellaring but if you want to open it now use a medium size white wine glass. It would be a great pairing with spring vegetable tart with parmesan cream, a sea bream with bonito and lovage or an 18 months aged Comté. 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 8% Chardonnay and 2% Petit Meslier. Pascaline Lepeltier.