Since 2014 Stéphane Bernaudeau has produced Les Onglés from an eponymous vineyard of 2.5 ha of schist and clay exposed south west, located on the right bank of the Layon between Cornu and Aubigné-sur-Layon (these are the same soils as Les Nourrissons). He has rented 1 ha since 2019 to a young winemaker - volumes will therefore decrease for this cuvée. But 2 new cuvées should arrive as he started to farm La Possonnière and Les Coqueries near the hamlet of Bonnezeaux - they should be less susceptible to frost than Onglés, a guarantee Stéphane needs in regard to the terrible previous vintages. But back to Les Onglés! The vines are between 40 and 60 years old and they are vinified in the same way as the other cuvées: the harvest is pressed in whole bunch, the fermentations are spontaneous, the malos normally occur. The wines are aged for one year on fine lees without racking, without batonnage, without analysis, in used Vicard barrels - in 2018 he begins to use the casks of the same cooper of 15 hl. 20 ppm of SO2 are added after malo and 20 ppm before bottling, which is done by Christian Braud between October and December.
For Stéphane, 2017 is the first vintage where he finally feels the energy of this superb terroir and this vine that he has patiently revived. It is also a vintage of frost, producing barely 10 hl / ha. The wine undeniably has a real density without any heaviness. The nose already shows a lot of complexity, more savory than fruity - acacia, linden with delicate salty reduction, followed by more classic quince, apple and blood orange skin. The palate is precise, with ripe vibrant tension just weighted by subtle lees which lend an unctuous quality. The core is dense, yet without any heaviness and has excellent length. Enjoy it now decanted in large glass, not too cold, or easily keep it for 10 years. Shellfish like razor clam served with a warm emulsion of butter and dill or celeriac risotto would be a perfect pairing. Pascaline Lepeltier
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