If you were to ask me which white wine producer in the Co^te d’Or brings me the most joy at the table, there are a few growers whose wines would come to mind, but ultimately despite my love for Germain, Leflaive, Pierre Morey, Niellon, Ramonet, Roulot, and others, I have to confess that Fichet consistently lights up my glass. The 2017 Puligny Referts 1er is no exception. Reductive and taut in opening, within a hour it offers all of the classic aromatics of Puligny: lemon blossom, honeysuckle, sweet pea (chlorophyll), sea spray, and a whisper of mint(?). The palate is similarly composed, with a perfect equipoise between savory driving minerality and an extravagant flush of yellow and white stone fruit. Expansive and exuberant? Sure! Yet containing layer after layer of nuance? Absolutely. This was magnificent with lemon scented ricotta stuffed ravioli and favas from our friends at the Simone and their Simone-A-Go-Go delivery. And shimmered with the Cooper River King Salmon, sugar snap peas, and spring onions. Take joy where you find it, friends. And do give Tina a call if you are in Manhattan. The Simone delivers on nearly as many levels as this gorgeous Referts from Monsieur Fichet. John McIlwain
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