100% whole cluster. The 2015 train keeps a rollin'. A couple of caveats: I've never been one to believe all the 2015 hype—there was sun, more sun,crazy heat, and short-pruning in a number of vineyards that saw terrible hail over the preceding three years. And I am ambivalent at best when it comes to stem inclusion in Burgundy (I mean, Jayer hated stems, right?). So I find myself at a loss to describe how fresh and bright and vibrant the De Montilles are. There's an inspiring florality in a number of the red with a corresponding lift to the palate (and this is in solar 2015!). The Volnay Mitans shows more of this restrained, elegant vintage character. Aromatically reticent at first with notes of black tea, blood orange peel, spice box, and some pomegranate and red currant floating fruit above a chalky mineral core. The palate is similarly circumspect, but opens and expands over a few hours to offer red cherry, cherry stone, iron, and hibiscus flavors with an incisively tangy, stony succulence. The Mitans offers the most overt whole cluster character, yet remains fresh and vibrant and compelling with its bright acidity and wild berry charm balanced by a deep sense of mineral character. This is lovely and energetic and outperforms the sometimes roasted character of the vintage. Give this 5-7 years and drink for the next decade, and this should dazzle. A fine bottle with magret of duck with lentils, where the soil notes complement the earthiness of the lentils and the savory meatiness of the duck, and this would shine with coq au vin, or any dish with wild mushrooms. De Montille really nailed the 2015s and this Mitans is no exception. John McIlwain
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