Emilio Hidalgo makes some of the most elegant and refined sherries in Jerez today. I asked him how he achieved such elegance in his wines and he replied that they are fanatical about cleanliness of their barrels and their bodega has a very unique position for the nurturing of the flor. Although there is no flor here, it is not missed. There are delicate aromas of nuts, Assam tea, smoke, and salted caramels. The palate is dry and finely textured finishing amazingly long and pure. Serve before dinner as an apéritif, during dinner with poultry dishes or after dinner as a digestive. This will be on my Thanksgiving table. cb
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