It's somewhat startling how lovely and young the 1997 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich QbA shows at 18 years old. Of course it should come as no surprise as Riesling is exceptionally long-lived and Willi Schaefer is certainly worthy of its gold standard reputation. The litheness of Graacher Himmereich is apparent here as the wine is racy and charming, rather than pungently mineral as in Graacher Domprobst. On the nose there are notes of white peach, apple blossom, and golden delicious apple overlying aromas of slate and hints of petrol. On the palate there is more lovely ripe fruit and slate with good cut and a lively, fresh, floral finish. John McIlwain
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