Ripe, pure, vibrant Zweigelt. It manages to be concentrated without getting jammy -- instead, it's simply juicy, dark, and delicious, full of fruit that is herbaceous and piney. All this is complemented by tannins and good acidity. It's more textured than previous vintages and it will probably unwind a bit more as it ages in the bottle. But it is easy to approach now, and easily one of the most impressive, serious Zweigelts I've ever tasted, an expressive but structured, stable, natural wine. A perfect foil to lamb or steak. Two years in large, older Slovenian barrels, with barely any sulfur added and essentially undetectable amounts of free sulfur. Jonathan Kemp
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