Although the exact origins of this grape variety are unknown, the earliest mention of Persan was in 1846 in the department of Isère. This is exactly what has brought Nicolas Gonin to work with this variety. Nicolas farms 4.5 hectares in the village of Saint-Chef and spends his time between his own domaine and working in a nursery tracing the lineage of ancient grapes and trying to bring back the lost varieties of his region. Gonin’s Persan is harvested by hand and destemmed before it is fermented with native yeasts in enamel vats. With 8-10 days of maceration before pressing, the wine gains a lot of depth and beautiful color. On the nose it shows dark plum, pomegranate seeds, and blackberry compote. The palate shows more plum with white pepper and minerals balanced by a fresh acidity and supple tannins. While not necessarily full-bodied, this would pair well with heartier food this coming winter! Tim Gagnon
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