Intensely bright and fragrant. Moss, flowers, prominent apricot, and enough of a hoppy character that it almost smells like an IPA. Lean, driving, and lots of acidity, finishing with a squeaky clean mineral texture. A remarkable, unique, profoundly expressive wine from Austria's Steiermark, an area largely dominated by modern, manipulated wines. Maria and Sepp Muster, however, are part of a small number of growers committed to working without chemicals and doing virtually nothing to their wines. This includes Maria's brothers Andreas Tscheppe and Ewald Tscheppe. Everything spends about 2 years in large (400-3,000L), old Slovenian barrels on the lees and is bottled unfiltered with barely measurable levels of sulfites. Jonathan Kemp
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