"Most Champagne" Agrapart told us "is 95% juice, and 5% other things: water, sugar, sulfur, and yeast." With this wine, the aim is to make a Champagne that is 100% "jus de raisin," which requires a second fermentation using cellar yeast and must from the current vintage rather than the sugar and neutral yeast combination used to create bubbles in virtually every other Champagne under the sun. This is the fifth time Agrapart has made this cuvée, and it's the first time he's been allowed to label it as "Champagne" because in every other edition, the CIVC (Champagne's regulating body) did not deem it Champagne-like enough to earn appellation status. Last year it was Agrapart's Complantée bottling that had us sprinting for our email to make a reservation with the supplier. This year it was Expérience. As memorable a bottle as you'll ever taste, this wine has gorgeous, chalky minerality, impeccable balance despite its lack of dosage, and vivid aromas of sweet, ripe Chardonnay. Not necessarily a Champagne to be cellar-ed, but a Champagne to be reveled in over the course of a meal.
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