We've been getting more excited recently by all the great new German Pinot Noir that has been coming our way, and this is one of the best yet. Coming from the tense, high-acid, high ripeness vintage of 2010, this superb red reminds us a high-toned 1er Cru Cote de Beaune -- red and black pinot fruit along with earth and striking mineral character and no noticeable influence of wood. This is the real deal, very autumnal and just what we want to drink right now. John Ritchie
One-star is Holger's equivalent of Premier Cru, and these vines are from a massale-planted parcel of 10-15 year-old vines farmed without chemicals on a mix of volcanic and limestone soils. Fermented with partial stem-inclusion and raised in a mix of 2-3 year old Stockinger barriques, demi-muids, and fuders, the oak use is light-handed and integrated with the warm, lush fruit. Tart acid and detailed layers belie a serious nature to the wine despite it's ease and effortless grace. Though many red wines in Baden are chaptalized, Koch does not take advantage of this and instead works harder than his peers to achieve proper balance and ripeness through carefully selecting for the best grapes. He also manages to use a light touch in the cellar to keep this exceptional fruit in the foreground. The worst qualities of German red wines may be found among those that aspire to be Burgundy but only succeed in being torpid, over-oaked, and expensive. This, by contrast, is subtle, true to its origins and truly world-class. Jonathan Kemp
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