The Chardonnay vines that go into Collin's "Les Roises" bottling are 60 years old; this is very old for Champagne vines and they suffer from two maladies called "millerandage" and "court-noué," which may contribute to the intense concentration of this wine. "Millerandage" means that the vine yields small berries of very different sizes that ripen irregularly, and "court-noué" is a disease of the vines, themselves, which results in a decline in vigor. Yet this wine is absolutely incredible and special, and probably the most age-worthy of Collin's wines because of the sheer concentration and density of the juice in the bottle. Less open at this point than the Pierrieres and more pillar-like, this is the wine to throw in your cellar for ten years or so... -msb
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