As in 2011, the Hermannshöhle GG is again terrific, but it's really aromatically closed as of June 2013. This is another Dönnhoff GG that's all structure and minerality at this point with the fruit playing second fiddle. The raw material is stunning, and this will probably age much better than any of the estate's previous dry wines. It's long, it's pure, it's elegant, and what its missing in the wild, kaleidoscopic fruit of 2011, it more than makes up for in detail, finesse and structure. -jfr
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