This wine -- one of the few sous voile wines Fan-fan Ganevat makes -- sparked an interesting discussion at the wine store, culminating in the decision that we all really, really liked the wine. The question was: why buy this over Valdespino's Innocente, which delivers lots of flor for much less money. This wine, however, does not taste like a sherry. The voile character is supported by the same intense, high acid, dense, apply fruit one finds in Ganevat's ouillé wines. This is a beautiful bottle. The nose offers smoky notes as well as umami, walnut skin, and mustard seed, but it's the velvety, full-fruited palate clamping down with minerality on the finish that slays. It's not an inexpensive bottle, but the drinker is well rewarded. -msb
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