As one goes along in the world of wine, one looks increasingly -- not just for good wine -- for unique wine, wine that resonates outside the tiny fortress of one's own experience. This wine left me marvelling with every sip. Made from the Gringet grape grown on yellow marl and limestone soils, the wine feels clawed from the earth, yet also possesses very distinct fruit character. Yields are low; everything in the vineyard and winery is done by hand, and the wine is raised in concrete eggs, which imparts a certain sleekness and purity. Along with the shimmery, Alpine minerality found in good examples of Altesse and Jacquère, there's a tropical quality to the fruit: a hint of coconut, lemon curd, and after some time open, a note of crème brulée that in another wine might seem cloying. Yet these seemingly sweet tones in no way detract from the wine's "clawed-from-the-earth" quality. All this density, magic, and length rests on a slight, 12.5% alcohol frame. It's a wine that leaves one yearning for another glass when the bottle has long been empty. -msb
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