Aged Riesling is far more easy to come by than aged Grüner Veltliner, so far fewer people have had the chance to be introduced to the charms of Austria's signature white grape with over 10 years of time in the bottle. Zwerithaler isn't one of Prager's better-known sites; it's actually been years since we've seen a current release. The rich, pithy, peachiness of Prager's 2001 Rieslings is really dialed back here (albeit still somewhat present). In its place is a laser-like sense of acidity and pervasive stoniness. With time this will continue to develop more and more earthy, mushroomy secondary character in place of the fruit, but right now it's zingy and bracingly mineral. Very cool wine and really quite tasty. -jfr
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