It is perhaps only in a village blessed with as many fabulous vignerons and famous wineries as Volnay, that a venerable domaine that stretches back five generations might be somewhat overlooked. Yet this is somehow the case with Joseph Voillot in Volnay. With nine hectares of well-situated, old vines across Volnay and Pommard, Voillot is a delight for lovers of classically styled Burgundies. The wines are pure, mineral, terroir-specific and they age beautifully.
The domaine has been run since 1995 by the puckish Jean-Pierre Charlot, son-in-law of the late Joseph Voillot after working alongside his father-in-law beginning in 1980. During this period Jean-Pierre also taught for many years at Lycée Viticole in Beaune, where he trained a bevy of Burgundy’s finest winemakers. His work in the vines and cellar produce wines that highlight the terroir of each site; his deft hand is especially evident in difficult vintages, when his wines shine.
At Voillot, the winemaking is traditional, with minimal intervention and focus on terroir and purity. To this end, the grapes are destemmed, the cuvées see 10-20% new oak, the premier crus are aged in barrel for sixteen months before resting in tank before bottling, the Villages and Bourgogne wines see a shorter elevage. Sulfur is minimized, to allow the aromatic purity to shine through. The reds are bottled with minimal filtration and without fining. The resulting wines are lovely on release, though they really gain in harmony and complexity with time in the cellar.
Today we are proud to welcome Jean-Pierre Charlot for an in-store tasting at Chambers Street Wines from 5-7PM. He will pour a selection of his Burgundies from 2013 and 2014 and we hope you'll be able to join us. John McIlwain
From 50 year old vines in four parcels below the village of Volnay. Cherry, iron, a bit backwards on opening, notes of black tea, freshly turned soil and rose emerge on the nose with air. There is a deft interplay between the bright hedge fruit and stony earth notes on the detailed, mid-weight palate. This is a fine Bourgogne, with enough savory elements in relation to the charm of the fruit, to warrant a couple of years in the cellar. Delicious with a salad of duck confit with bitter greens. John McIlwain
Located beneath Bousse d'Or and between the Champans and En l'Ormeau climats in the center of the village of Volnay, Carelle Sous la Chapelle (the square beneath the chapel) shares some of the fruity character of Champans with a bit more structure. The 2013 has a lovely melange of wild blackberry, black currant, rose petal, and game aromas on the nose. There's a fine balance of fruit and savory minerality on the palate with sappy blackberry vying with soil notes for prominence on the lingering finish. Perhaps not as structured as some vintages, but this has plenty of drive and should be immensely satisfying with a few years in the bottle. This pairs beautifully with braised duck dumplings and is a prime choice to accompany a chicken fricassee with plenty of mushrooms. John McIlwain
The 2013 Volnay Vieilles Vignes from Joseph Voillot is marked by the generosity of the vintage. Pure fruit and freshness (not to mention exuberant energy) are hallmarks of the year. Perfumed with aromas of cherry blossom, Morello cherry, baking spices, and black tea on nose. Positively lovely wild cherry fruit and red currant fruit, with supple tannins and a touch of that mineral zang on the supple finish. This is lifted rather than brooding, but has the stuffing for mid-term aging and should evolve beautifully for the next 7-10 years. John McIlwain
From a .6 HA plot with vines dating from the 1932, 1950, and 1978.The high limestone content of the soils results in high-toned wines with great energy and finesse. The 2014 Fremiets is perfumed with aromas of wild cherry, spices, rose hip, and red plum with hints of game. The mid-weight palate is likewise red-fruited with wild cherry, red currant, and red plum flavors underlain with a chalky minerality and fine, ripe tannins on an articulate, layered and rising finish. This is a lovely Fremiets with great harmony and verve. Delicious now with air, but this should really sing with a few years in the cellar. John McIlwain