Private Collection: Burgundy and Champagne

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Dubreuil-Fontaine 1993 Savigny les Beaune 1er cru Les Vergeslesses

Old-fashioned in the best possible sense, Dubreuil-Fontaine makes Burgundies which require a good deal of aging to display their charms.

The 1993 Savigny-Les Beaune 1er cru Les Vergelesses is showing that charm right now. Upon opening, there is a bit of classic aged Burgundy funk which blows off to reveal red fruits, dried roses, game, and a hint of sous-bois. The palate shows cherry and wild strawberry fruit with hints of truffle and underbrush, underpinned by a sort of ferrous minerality. The tannins are mostly resolved. And while the acids have softened, they are still prominent enough to lend a sense of freshness to the ripe, attractive fruit. This is pretty without being confected or slick. This should be immensely satisfying for fans of earthy, old school Burgundy. John McIlwain

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Marguet 2014 Champagne Grand Cru Ambonnay Les Crayères

100% Pinot Noir. The lieu-dit of Les Crayères is one of the great parcels in Ambonnay, if not all of Champagne. This sunny, mid-slope vineyard produces Champagne of great energy and cut. While still in its infancy, one senses nascent complexity the nose offers aromas of apple skin and Meyer lemon zest with toasty, biscuity notes. The palate, currently wound up and a bit backward, offers red fruit and deep stone flavors, with good power and tension. Of the 2014 lieux-dits, the nervy Les Crayères will likely need the most time in the cellar to evolve and knit the pure fruit flavors and firm, muscular structure. Bottled without sulfur. Disgorged March  2019. John McIlwain

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  • Organic
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Piollot 2010 Polisy Extra Brut Champs Rayés

Sourced in its majority from the striped marl soils of a vineyard in the village of Noé Les Mallets, the Champs Rayés sits a pale golden yellow in the glass and offers a generous mousse. The nose unfolds with aromas of lemon/lime sorbet, hazelnuts, laurel, and wisteria. The palate is on the broad and powerful end of the spectrum for a Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) and shows aromas of yellow apples, green apples, and yellow plums before a tart, lemon pith finish. (Dosage : Zero, Disgorged : 5/2014).

- David Salinas

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