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Domaine Andre et Mireille Tissot, begun in 1962, is in Montigny-les-Arsures, just a few kilometers from Arbois. Stéphane, their son, took over in 1990 and has slowly but surely established the Tissot name as an important one in the history of Jura wine. A tireless vigneron, Stéphane farms between 45 and 50 hectares biodynamically, travels to distant lands as a spokesperson for the Jura, makes numerous different cuvèes, and is intimately familiar with each of his terroirs. After taking over from his father, André, as the head of the family's estate, Stéphane quickly began leading it in a new direction, eliminating the use of selected yeasts and pushing the farming towards organic methods, a decision he made after meeting Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard. The domaine received organic certification in 1999, and biodynamic certification 5 years later. Thanks to Stephane's tireless work, the Tissots are regarded as one of the most important producers of the Jura, and their belief of and focus on well-farmed, well-made wine has never wavered.
Though most of his wines are from the Arbois appellation, Stéphane has vineyard land all over the northern part of the region. In the cellar, we think of Stéphane as being a modernist. He uses some new wood; his vineyard specific Chardonnays are at times reminiscent of white Burgundies. Most of his white wines are topped up, yet his sous voile Savagnin proves him to be more than capable of making excellent “traditional” Jura white wine. His red wines are elegant and seamless, some oak kissed, others the essence of freshness. He leaves the impression of being a perfectionist, each wine impeccably executed in the style he has chosen, an especially impressive feat given the size of the domaine.
Today's offer is in fact for more than a handful of cuvees, though all in tiny supply. With Jura wine production always teetering or dwindling (though we hear 2023 was a more bountiful harvest than the previous... 8 years?), never booming or multiplying, and with the cat out of the bag so to say, it's harder and harder to get Stéphane's wines and they keep creeping up in price. It's not like the old days when Jura was a secret word that a small circle of wine geeks spoke to each other, but we should see that as a good thing in many ways! Stéphane has been working for decades, to show the world how special the Jura is, and his persistent efforts have made a big difference. Burgundy drinkers who poo pooed the Jura now request Tissot's top whites! Geeks are now cool (wish that happened in high school) and Jura is almost too cool now, but the amazing wines and producers keep us coming back, even with the hipness and the prices. Sometimes it sucks to be a wine nerd, but drink a bottle of Tissot and you'll remember why there's no turning back. -EL
Please note that due to rising prices and a uncontrollable grey market for these wines, the wines on offer today received a low markup and will not discount. Sorry!
Tissot, Stéphane NV Crémant du Jura Non Dosé 1.5 L
An abiding staff favorite from Stéphane Tissot's biodynamic estate in Arbois, this crémant is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. The interplay between the dry, mineral complexity and rich generosity make this an incredible Champagne-alternative. Opulent aromas of raw honey and baked red apple lead to flavors of tangy yellow fruit, crisp apple, toasted almond, and quince on the persistent finish. Not long ago Stéphane elevated the quality of the wine with a portion aged in barrel and he tries to increase the barrel fermentation on the Cremant each year. At this point he may be close to 100% at the rate he was going!
Tissot, Stephane 2019 Savagnin En Amphore
Stephane has been borderline obsessed if not at least intrigued and fascinated with amphoras for many years now, and has several in his posession. One can assume that he has the largest amphora collection in the Jura! He began acquiring them between 2005-2010, with some of his first releases in 2009. His approach to the 'Savagnin En Amphore' has typically employed some skin inclusion during aging in amphora, usually between 3-6 months, and the wine is finished in neutral barrel with topping up. We enjoy its spicy, exotic orange peel notes on the nose, and the very pleasant and integrated level of tannins from the skins. // Note on the 2019 from Camille Riviere, Stephane's New York importer: "Fruit comes from parcel en Spois, planted on triassic clay. Hand destemmed, then maceration 60% Amphore (420L clay pot above ground made by now retired clay pot maker Alain Berthéas, who was established in the Rhone. Made with Italian clay, and cooked at 1000c) & 40% Qvevri (lined with wax, because cooked at 700c, so more porous = reductive environment). After 5 months of maceration, the grapes are pressed and the elevage is done in barrels (always topped up) and amphore. Bottled unfined, unfiltered, no sulfur added. Rich & concentrated."
Tissot, Bénédicte et Stéphane 2018 Arbois Savagnin Sous Voile
This is an enchanting, old school oxidative Savagnin that spent 36 months sous voile. As Stephane explained to me earlier this year, the "finesse of oxidation starts in the vines. If your grapes are diluted the oxidation has no finesse." The Tissot vineyards are farmed meticulously, that we know, but this remark was not so much to praise his own farming but to point out that not all oxidative wines are alike. There is painstaking and dedicated work that goes into obtaining ideal grapes for oxidative wines, and this dedication to great farming has resulted in a beautiful wine, that we would highly recommend to any fan of Vin Jaune who is also a fan of exquisite white wines.
Tissot, Stéphane NV Crémant du Jura (Non Dosé)
An abiding staff favorite from Stéphane Tissot's biodynamic estate in Arbois, this crémant is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. The interplay between the dry, mineral complexity and rich generosity make this an incredible Champagne-alternative. Opulent aromas of raw honey and baked red apple lead to flavors of tangy yellow fruit, crisp apple, toasted almond, and quince on the persistent finish. Not long ago Stéphane elevated the quality of the wine with a portion aged in barrel and he tries to increase the barrel fermentation on the Cremant each year. At this point he may be close to 100% at the rate he was going!
Tissot 2021 Arbois Trousseau Singulier
A beautiful wine in 2021, the Trousseau 'Singulier' is sourced from selection massale vines from the famous Sous Curon site, along with some old vines on Liassic clay. All de-stemmed and fermented for one month (give or take) in open tank with a few gentle pump-overs, then aged in 600L demi-muid for about a year. The nose offers pretty notes of wild strawberry, blood orange, and earthy spice. Polished tannins elevated by bright and cool brambly fruit flavors make this marvelous on its own or perfect for cheeses, charcuterie, mushrooms or poultry.
Tissot 2020 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Sursis
The vines for Chardonnay 'Sursis' come from a parcel on Lias terroir in the AOC of Château Chalon. Tissot purchased this parcel in 2007. "Sursis" means "on parole," and Tissot will keep producing this wine as long as the vines give him grapes! Usually aging is for about a year (and not longer as he likes to preserve tension) and the wine is known to drink beautifully in its youth. The 2020 is certainly drinking beautifully now, but could age upwards of 10 years too. The deep and enticing nose, with lemons and herbs, the lovely mid-palate and evolution in the mouth - this is certainly a wine that affirms Stephane's dedicated farming and his ability to be a careful shepherd of purity and a conveyor of Chardonnay's unique profile from the soils and micro-climates of the Jura.
Tissot, Bénédicte et Stéphane 2016 Jura Savagnin "Dévoilé" La Vasée
A truly bizarre and singular wine! In 2016, Stephane had 9 barrels that were destined to be Vin Jaune 'La Vasee,' from a north-facing parcel of the same name, on Trias soil. As time progressed only four bareels took voile. These went on to be bottled as Vin Jaune, but the five barrels that did not develop voile (or flor) were eventually bottled as this, the Savagnin "Dévoilé" Vasée! Voile, as Stephane explains, consumes glycerol, which is a byproduct of fermentation and lends a type of viscosity or fuller texture to wines. Vin Jaunes do often have a type of sharpness and oxidative cut and a persistent leanness, but they need the voile to consume glycerol to attain these qualities. Here this didn't happen, so the wine has an elegant richness and texture. Unfortunately I don't have tasting notes on Dévoilé beyond: "super interesting. Yum!," and I haven't had a chance to taste it again, but if you have ever had a moment with a Tissot wine, this is for you, not just to remind you of how good they can be, but to blow you away again.