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One of Austria, and Europe's, most influential winemakers, Roland Velich from Moric fame has wowed us with his interesting eastern Hidden Treasures from neighboring Hungary. A collaboration initially with Attila Homona from Tokaj, Hidden Treasures has expanded to other winemakers and regions in Hungary. The aim? So that more people might get to experience the rare, dry, elegant white wines these winemakers craft so meticulously. As my colleague Eben Lillie so eloquently summed up in a previous article:" This project is truly noteworthy, as there is a wealth of history in the winemaking regions of Hungary that has been forgotten in today's wine world. As Velich says in an interview, the area where his family's vines are was in Hungary until the 1920s, and the wines of Hungary were at one point the most famous in the world (usually 2 or 3 times more expensive than the finest Burgundy or Chateau Margaux!). Moreover, it is admirable to see him raising up the profile of up and coming winemakers in Hungary, who are following a similar philosophy as Roland, preserving local varieties and producing wines with indigenous yeast and minimal intervention." We are thrilled to be able to offer up older vintages of these treasures from the winery including the 2015 Tokaj with Homona, 2017 Somlo with Tamas Kis, 2019 Lake Balaton with Philipp Oser of Villa Tolnay and 2021 Tokaj with Gergo Filip. We will also include his fabulous blends Supernatural 2018 White, 19 Red and, for the cherry on top: his prized single vineyard 2015 Blaufrankisch Lutzmannsburg! Collectors of these rare gems, on your marks! WINES WILL BE AVAILABLE FOR PICKUP AND DELIVERY FRIDAY 10/27. Giselle Hamburg
Hidden Treasure Project No. 2 is a cooperation with Tamas Kis from Somlo. This is a completely dry white wine made from the trio of grapes Hàrslevelü, Furmint and Olaszrizling (or Welschriesling).
A blend of mostly Gruner Veltliner (75%) and Chardonnay, meant for drinking now. Aged in large old barrels. As with all of Roland's wines, fermentation is with indigenous yeast and minimal SO2 used at bottling.
Hausmarket Rot is a blend of 50% Rotburger (zweigelt), 35% Blauufrankisch and 15% Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir). It comes across as Blaufrankisch with a more playful side, fresh and agile, full of notes of currants, plums and berries. There is a backbone of earth, minerality and spice that supports the dark fruit in this easy to drink introduction (House Brand) to the finessed and wonderful wines of Roland Velich. Giselle Hamburg
No. 3 is from Balaton, a collaboration with Philipp Oser of Villa Tolnay. Philip Oser originates from Switzerland and started Villa Tolnay on the shores of Lake Balaton in 2004. Here, Oser grows Riesling and Furmint in rich basalt soils. The vineyards stretch up Csobanc hill, the remains of a magnificent volcanic mountain surrounded by the sedimentary deposits of the former Pannonian Sea. The distinct minerality in these soils make the Lake Balaton region a very special place to make wine. The wine undergoes spontaneous/native fermentation partly in used Stockinger barrels or Hungarian oak and partly in stainless steel.
A collaboration between Roland Velich (MORIC) and Attila Homonna, whose estate is in Hungary's famed Tokaj region and has some of the oldest known Furmint vineyards. Attila began his small 3 hectare winery in 1999. He organically farms some of the best sites of old vine, old clone Furmint and Harslevelu around the villages of Erdobenye and Olasziszka . He began making arguably of some of the best dry versions of Furmint of Tokaj. Soon after, his wines came to the attention of Roland Velich of Moric. The 2015 is the fruit of their first collaboration. Only native yeasts are used for the spontaneous fermentation in used Stockinger or Hungarian oak barrels and steel tanks. Dry but texturally silky with a spicy backbone of citrus pith and white gumdrop. These are wines for immediate enjoyment but with the potential to last for many years. Winemonger
To many this wine is one of Moric's best so far; the old Blaufrankisch vines of this vineyard atop a plateau lend immense complexity to a wine that is first and foremost elegant, well structured and certainly not opulent. Good acidity and pleasant tannins paired with fine minerality, all in perfect balance. Stock up and put away for the very long haul but also great for all upcoming holiday meals!!!
No. 1 is Tokaj, the winemaker, Gergo Filip. Filip's old vine Furmint grows in Rhyolite in a cool and windy microclimate, meaning it spent a longer time on the vine giving this dry white wine endless complexity. Farming is organic, though it is not yet certified. The grapes underwent whole bunch pressing, native yeast fermentation and was aged in large oak barrels. There was no filtration. Ripe citrus and layers of smoky minerality are the signature notes of this elegant and intensely contemplative wine with enough natural acidity from the wonderfully cool 2021 vintage to make it extremely versatile and age worthy.