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A chance to purchase some of the brilliant 2021 Rieslings that you need a few more bottles of, or that you might have missed when they were first offered. And there are a few wines from the 2021 VDP auction that have not been available here...
Immich-Batterieberg 2019 Mosel Ellergrub Riesling
A preposterously steep grand cru of BLUE SLATE with ancient 100yr old ungrafted vines, fermented and aged in used oak casks for 10 months. The 2019 vintage was vinified just slightly off dry at 11.4 grams of RS, hence the Feinherb labeling as opposed to Grand Cru. The nose is an explosion of juicy peach & white stone fruit enrobing an iodine mineral core giving way to an expansive, spicy, lingering finish. This is still tightly wound, but has all the elements to make for compelling drinking with 5-10 years in the cellar. A blockbuster expression of Gernot's self-proclaimed favorite site. What makes the Ellergrub vineyard so special? Gernot believes it’s the soil: “The Ellergrub has a higher proportion of blue slate than my other vineyards. Also, the slate is finely weathered, with lots of little pieces of stone. This makes for very subtle and elegant wines which can be very mineral and not fruit-driven at first and generally need time.” Giselle Hamburg
Schaefer, Willi 2019 Mosel Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #11 375ml
The 2019 Graacher Domprobst Auslese #11 is filigreed and racy for the pradikat, showing all the verve and brightness of the vintage. The nose shows a touch of sponti, but time in the glass reveals pretty aromas of pear skin, orange blossom, peach nectar, and cool mint leaves. There's a delicate honeyed sweetness that dances across the palate balanced by pitch-perfect acidity and waves of luscious stone fruit and citrus flavors with a subtle herbal undercurrent. Framing this is a zesty, mouthwatering stoniness leading to impeccable balance even at this young age. This is already lovely, but this will dazzle when mature in 8-10 years and for decades beyond. An emotionally gratifying wine! John McIlwain
Nikolaihof 2016 Wachau Riesling Vom Stein Smaragd
"Vom Stein" translates to "of the stone" and the biodynamically-farmed gravel and primary rock based vineyards on the Southern side of the Danube produce wines of profound mineral expression.
Lauer, Peter 2020 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Unterstenberg Fass 12
Covered in eroded gray slate, the south-southwest facing Unterstenberg lieu-dit is the site on the Ayler Kupp that has some of the most water retention due to its location at the foot of the hillside. Fermented to just off-dry in 2020.
Lauer, Peter 2021 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Fass 8 Kabinett
"This Kabinett is sourced from the Kupp; power and extreme rigor – this sports 46 grams residual sugar with about 11 grams acidity and just 8% alcohol. Teeth-shatteringly delicious." - Vom Boden website
Lauer, Peter 2021 Saar Ayler Kupp Spatlese Fass 7
From the Ayler Kupp vineyard, pradikat-level here, with about 70g/RS and 8% Alc. Mosel Fine Wines says: 'It offers a stunning nose made of lime, cassis, apricot blossom, chalk, a dash of almond cream... This is a stunningly vibrant expression of Saar Spätlese in the making!"
Lauer, Peter 2021 Saar Lambertskirsch Riesling Kabinett
From a historic site on the Saar, near the Schonfels vineyard, the Lambertskirsch wines are typically Pradikat level, with 2021 at about 60g/RS and 8% Alc. Dense, creamy, and very age-worthy.
Lauer, Peter 2021 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Stirn Fass 15
Southwest facing Fass 15, Stirn (forehead), comes from near the top of the Ayler Kupp where the hill curves around. The cooler, windier microclimate and meager soils allow for a later harvest, with the resulting wine offering more fruit and generosity. // "In 2021 the wine is fermented down to 9.6% alcohol with 34g/l of RS and a whopping 10.1g/l of acidity to balance." (Vom Boden)
Leitz, Josef 2019 Rheingau Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Riesling GG
The Rosengarten site is located around the oldest castle complex in the Middle Rhine Valley. The Riesling vines are on average 35 years old and the soil here is characterized by deep, calcareous loess. The nose offers up passion fruit and yellow citrus aromas joined by a fine petrol note accompanied by a cool quartzite minerality. The palate reveals a refreshing acidity that literally dances in the mouth with the creamy texture of the wood, followed by the intensely powerful, stony minerality. Not for the faint of heart, this Riesling will reward fattier food pairings such as tuna, swordfish, lobster, fowl, pork and veal dishes. Giselle Hamburg
Leitz 2019 Rheingau Rüdesheimer Roseneck Riesling Gr Gewach
The western section of the vineyard where this Riesling is sourced is incredibly rocky and one of the steepest sites in Germany. Grapes have been cultivated from this site since the year 1200 and the historical name "Katerloch," or “Devil’s Hole,” is the amphitheater portion of the mountain that appears as though it was carved out of the slope of the Rüdesheimer Berg.Wines sourced from this site are always the coolest and leanest of Leitz's GGs, with intense citrus acidity and minty qualities to balance the firm acidity. The vinification and aging in 1200L German oak casks extenuate the heavy quartzite soils, further enhancing minerality. Showing intense minty herbaceous notes with a faint whiff of petrol, the 2019 is crystaline and ethereal despite it's serious minerality. A long, saline finish with gobs of citrus peel and green apple. Although you could drink now, this will hold for well over a decade so stock up! Giselle Hamburg
Emrich-Schönleber 2021 Nahe Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
"The Frühlingsplätzchen vineyard has a southwest-to-southeast exposure. At its steepest point, it has a 70% incline. Its soils mostly consist of red slate and gravel, frequently interspersed with the red-coloured loam referred to as Rotliegend. Even at a young age, Frühlingsplätzchen will seduce you with its playful, spring-like fruit character. Its aromas are often redolent of peach and ripe apple, while fine herbal notes also tend to emerge. A few years of cellaring will lend a more pronounced minerally quality that makes Frühlingsplätzchen wines increasingly electrifying with age." Frank Schönleber Gently crushed, 3-5 hr maceration, pressed into a mix of 1200-3000L barrels. Really wonderful, slightly more body and concentration in 2021…Cari Bernard
Stein 2020 Mosel Alfer Hölle Riesling Spätlese 1900
The Alfer Hölle Riesling 1900 comes from a small parcel of about 1000 vines planted in 1900 and thought to be the second oldest vines in the Mosel. This year's model is delicately off-dry and filigreed, a Spätlese-Feiherb, if you want to categorize it. Year after year Alfer Hölle 1900 startles us with its combination of soaring aromatics, old vine concentration, and seeming weightlessness. A truly magical wine from a special place.
Stein 2020 Mosel Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Alte Reben
Comprised of multiple small parcels on the Himmelreich in blue slate soils. 100% ungrafted vines averaging over 75 years old. Ulli Stein, the mineral magician of the Mosel somehow lives up to his stellar 2019 Himmelreich Feinherb with this glorious 2020. Less flamboyant, but somehow more knit and balanced, this still displays the Stein energy. Just off-dry, with lifted aromas of Meyer lemon zest, apple blossom, white cherry, and rock dust on the nose. The palate is focused and stony, with white stone fruits fanning out from a sneakily substantial mineral core, yet this intensity is seemingly weightless—quite a feat. This is a joyful feinerb, wearing its whisper of sweetness deftly and electric acidity and minerality with confidence. Fabulous. John McIlwain
Stein 2020 Mosel St. Aldegunder Palmberg Terrassen Ries Kab Trocken
A kabinett trocken positively begging for superlatives and far-fetched analogies Uli Stein's 2020 Palmberg Alte Reben is sourced from steep parcel of 90+ year-old un-grafted vines. Decidedly pale yellow robe. The most ebullient nose of the wines: white flowers, bee pollen, apple blossom, honeysuckle nectar, underripe white peach skin, a faint hint of acacia honey (were it not sweet) and salt (whew!). The palate is the most dynamic and concentrated, seeming to reach skyward and plumb firmly the mineral depths of the site simultaneously. The mid-weight, dry palate offers flavors of salted plum, peach pit, orange oil, salt, and lady apple, girded by a firm slatey core and imbued with wave upon wave of white and yellow orchard fruit flavors, giving way to a savory, palate-staining finish. This is excellent but only revealing a hint of what’s to come. This is showy and long without seeming flashy and cries out more time in the cellar to allow the dry extract and fruit to knit with the crystalline structure. Beautiful stuff and worth tucking away for the 5-10 years and beyond.
Stein 2021 Mosel St. Aldegunder Palmberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken
Grey-slate, steep terraces, old vines, and un-grafted rootstocks? Sign us up! Uli Stein's Palmberg Alte Reben Trocken is sourced from a steep parcel of 90+ year-old vines. This shows the sharp and lean side of Riesling with notes of slate, ocean air and plenty of minerals.
Stein 2021 Mosel Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Alte Reben
Comprised of multiple small parcels on the Himmelreich in blue slate soils. 100% ungrafted vines averaging over 75 years old, farmed loyally by Ulli Stein, the mineral magician of the Mosel. This is always a just-barely off-dry wine, and the cool 2021 vintage is fully in effect here, keeping things racy and fresh.
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Riesling Kröver Steffensberg Auslese GKA
The stellar 2019er Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Auslese GK was made from 80% botrytized fruit picked at 126° Oechsle, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (145 g/l) (per Mosel Fine Wines). The robe is a pale gold, The nose offers beguiling aromas of pear nectar, orange oil, quince, peach skin, and honeysuckle. The palate is rich and supple verging on unctuous, with magnificent honeyed notes and juicy stone fruit flavors with a streak of freshening acidity rippling beneath. The crystalline mineral character buoys the sweetness and and adds an almost racy character to the finish. This is a stellar Auslese and should age brilliantly for 25+ years. John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Riesling Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese
The 2019 Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese (AP 02 20) sourced from old vines in the Wolfer Goldgrube, picked at 96° Oechsle fermented down to 96 g/l residual sugar. This is a beautiful Spätlese balancing flinty/stony notes and magnificent floral aromas on the nose giving way to lush stone fruit and Cara Cara orange peel. The palate shows the ripeness of the vintage (and a touch of botrytis) but has an electric core of acidity lending focus and dazzling energy to the long, lingering, harmonious finish. This is a beautiful bottle now, but 5 to 10 years in the cellar to allow the elements to knit should be rewarded handsomely in complexity and nuance. Highly recommended! John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Krover Riesling Steffsberg Spatlese
From vines that are 40+ years old and picked at 103° Oechsle and fermented to 90 g/l residual sugar. The 2019 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese has a pale yellow green robe. The nose is airy and lifted offering cool minty and sweet herbal aromas (Spring in a glass) giving way to scents of apple blossom, a white peach nectar, and wet slate. The palate is chiseled and taut on the attack, brimming with salty mineral notes with ripe flavors of white cherry, apple skin, and Meyer lemon oil radiating outward. This is already layered and offering nascent complexity, but oh! what a bright future this has once the structural elements harmonize. Gorgeous! John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2021 Mosel Riesling Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett
Vollenweider is a master of Pradikat wines (not to mention, a wonderful person) and any true Riesling lover should consider his wines for their cellar. From Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2021er Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett was made from early harvested fruit and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (52 g/l). Fine and elegant residues from its spontaneous fermentation give way to superb floral and light creamy elements of almond, spices, mint, bergamot, and violet."
Weiser-Künstler 2019 Mosel Trabener Gaispfad Trk Riesling
From roughly 85 years-old ungrafted vines on iron-rich gray slate next to Ellergrub. A little late in getting a note up for this. But holy moly! what a wine! There’s a pale yellow with hints-of-gold robe. The nose is effusive, verging on flamboyant with gorgeous aromas of yellow flowers, perfectly ripe white peaches, comice pear, and white pepper and a whisper of spearmint. The lush palate is ripe, juicy, and concentrated on the attack, with a deep undercurrent of spice and ferruginous mineral character with a snappy bit of acidity to keep things lively. This has just suspicion of residual sugar and is already offering layer after layer of complexity. The nose alone is worth the price of admission (our friend Kara S. described it as akin to receiving a huge bouquet of expensive flowers), but the length and depth of the palate is extraordinary. This is extravagantly good and should age beautifully for 20 years or more. Absolutely ravishing and a glorious expression of Gaispfad. John McIlwain
Weiser-Künstler 2020 Mosel Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese
The Ellergrub is a top-tier vineyard site with an extremely steep grade and ample amounts of dark blue and gray slate at various states of erosion. The old vines here give grapes that are perfectly suited for wines that exemplify Weiser-Kunstler's pursuit of tension and structure. This year's Ellergrub Kabinett struck me as one with incredible aging potential. Pale green yellow robe. The nose is Spring fresh, and redolent of white flowers, white peach, and orange flower water. The palate has similarly vivid white stone fruit and citrussy flavors, with a firm salty core of slatey soil notes. And though this shows Spätlese ripeness and a bit of residual sugar, this is cloaking a deeply soil-driven core that lends an electric drive to things and leaves the mouth watering. Really tasty and nervy. And though already displaying fine depth, there is nothing but upside here and it will be a genuine struggle to keep one’s hands off this to give it a chance to knit (it's just that delicious). A shimmering Ellergrub and a testament to Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler's work in the vines and cellar. John McIlwain