Peter Jakob Kuhn winery smack in the middle of the Rheingau in the town of Oestrich on the north side of the river

Good Vibrations in the Rheingau: Peter Jakob Kuhn

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The last day of my Germany trip in April was spent visiting the famed Rheingau wine region on the north side of the Rhine river where it breaks from it's South/ North flow to an East/West one. Historically, the Rheingau was always considered one of Germany's top appellations as it's southern facing vineyards were able to achieve greater ripeness than elsewhere. As I mentioned about a year ago in my Rheingau Royalty article about Leitz, many of the great aristocratic estates that built the Rheingau’s reputation from the late 18th century closed down, were sold off and/or broken up. It wasn't until the 80s that the top producers banded together and decided to revive the Burgundy-style vineyard classification that existed from 1867 for a century that improvements began. Another winery key in the Rheingau's renaissance is that of Peter Jakob Kuhn.

Entrance to Kuhn winery

Although the estate has been a cornerstone of Rheingau winemaking for around 230 years, it wasn't until the 11th generation that a sea change was introduced: the conversion to organic  and then biodynamic viticulture helmed by Peter Jakob and Angela who took over in 1979. One of the few estates in Germany to be certified biodynamic, the conversion was gradual and started at home: unhealthy food was banned – no white sugar, white flour or processed foods of any kind. Then, they abandoned herbicides and insecticides, anti-fungal sprays, and cultured yeasts; in 2001 they took the plunge and became biodynamically certified. The wines are now made by son Peter Bernhardt and wife Viktoria, although as witnessed during my visit, the winery is still very much a family affair with all hands on deck. Expecting to meet with son Peter-Bernhardt, I was greeted by Mama Angela who proceeded to run the wine tasting with me and then drive me around to visit  the vineyards. I briefly saw Peter-Bernhardt during the tasting as he was leaving with his two small children to take them to a nearby petting zoo!  Angela said delightedly : "Viktoria is busy with a newborn and as we are a family winery, everyone pitches in. So today, Peter Bernhardt is on babysitting duty!"

Angela Kuhn in a Hallgarten vineyard with town of Oestrich and Rhein river below in the distance

The visit to the vineyards was nothing short of revelatory. After Angela regaled me with tales of historical village rivalries (she's from Hallgarten and Peter Jakob is from Oestrich), she shared with me her and her husband's immense passion and creed for biodynamics, showing me sites for making compost and their cosmic energy stone pyramids with triangle of poplars at each vineyard.

Pyramid, poplars and bench
Hallgarten Hendelberg vineyard

She said that her and husband Peter Jakob love ending the day siting on the bench at these pyramids looking out across the valley and Rhine river in the distance. Having tasted their wines first and seeing the vineyards after, I realized that their wines's crystaline vibrancy and energy were completely driven by the "good vibrations" from this exemplary terroir and custodianship. We are honored to offer five of them today: their extremely limited Blanc de Blancs Sekt, a village blend of three sites using older vines, two 1er Cru single vineyards and their Doosberg GG Grand Cru. I hope you will enjoy them as much as I did!  Best consumed whilst listening to the Beach Boys! Giselle Hamburg

ALL WINES ARE IN STOCK EXCEPT FOR DOOSBERG GG WHICH WILL BE AVAILABLE  8/25

Kühn, Peter Jakob 2019 Rheingau Oestricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken 1er G

The name of the vineyard derives from the former Cistercian monastery of Gottesthal. The soil has calcareous loess with fossilized seashells & quartz pebbles. It was deposited millions of years ago as the "primordial beach" of the Rhine at about 160 m above sea level. and a moderate incline. The wine is super mineral yet delicately spicy, full of rosemary and herbaceousness. It is the masculine stag couterpart to Hendelberg's feminine doe in its breadth and concentration.  Giselle Hamburg

  • white
  • 4 in stock
  • $39.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Kühn, Peter Jakob 2020 Hallgartener Hendelberg 1er G Riesling

The name of the site goes back to the old German word “Hindi” (= hind). This used to be a site for watching hinds (does) feeding with their calves in spring, long before wine was grown here. From their highest vineyard at 300 meters above the Mittel Rhiengau plateau, the site is south-west facing and very steep in parts, riddled with grey Devon slate. The high angle of inclination favors the effect of the sun in spring and autumn and reduces the intensity of radiation in midsummer. The vines are aerated by the down winds which helps prevents diseases and cooled by the wooded Taunusrange above. This produces a wine of bright acidity and verve; the nose is very mineral yet delicate and ethereal. The palate is full of bright citrus underscored by a very elegant slate influence. Overall, sleek and feminine like the does that used to graze there. Giselle Hamburg

  • white
  • 3 in stock
  • $44.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Kühn, Peter Jakob 2021 Rheingau Oestricher Doosberg Riesling GG

DOOSBERG is a plot of 45 year old vines on a south-west facing slope. This ensures the vines are exposed to constant winds, allowing the grapes to dry fast and develop in ideal conditions for a dry Riesling. The grapes are hand-harvested, whole-bunch-pressed for eight hours and then fermented with natural yeasts. It is then aged on lees for 13 months before being racked in December then aged on fine lees until April. As per the distributor:" The nose is powerful and elegant,  highly complex and terroir-driven that shows fascinating earthy tones of crushed  slate, iodine and  lemonade. Silky, lush and highly elegant on the palate, this is a juicy but refined, vibrantly pure and mineral Doosberg with fine, crunchy tannins and characteristic mineral acidity and crisp phenolic grip. The finish is enormously long and energetic in all its crescendo salinity and mineral purity."

  • white
  • 2 in stock
  • $89.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur
Sorry, the Following have Already Sold

Kühn, Peter Jakob 2018 Rheingau Sekt Brut Riesling

Harvested from the higher, cooler vineyards at the very start of harvest time and made up of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois.  The base wine is spontaneously fermented followed by the second fermentation in bottle with 24 months aging on the lees. A minimal dosage of 2.9 grams lends it a pristine, linear profile. Aromas of citrus, faint petrol and wet rocks are followed by flavors of brioche, lemon curd and crunchy minerality with zingy acidity and a sprightly mousse.  Although perfect on its own as an aperitif, it's complexity begs for some food whether it be oyster and shellfish or schnitzel and fried chicken! An elegant alternative to Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne that will make your heart sing and your wallet smile! Giselle Hamburg

  • Out of Stock
  • white sparkling
  • 0 in stock
  • no discount
  • $29.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Kühn, Peter Jakob 2020 Rheingau Hallgarten Riesling Alte Reben

As per the distributor: "Sourced from the single vineyards Jungfer, Schönhell and Würzgarten on grey and dark slate soils, the 2020 Hallgarten Riesling trocken Alte Reben combines the higher location of the vineyards with the 40+-year-old, narrowly planted vines that give a particular coolish micro-climate, according to Peter Bernhard. Vinified in 60% stainless steel and 40% large oak casks, the nose is clear, bright, intense and complex in its sexy purity that combines yellow fruit aromas and uplifting, almost floral and ethereal terroir notes. Medium to full-bodied, this is a crystalline and silky, enormously pure and elegant, salty, vital and frisky Riesling with remarkable finesse and piquancy." Tasted at the winery, the wine displays crisp cool herbaceousness that is high toned, bright and mineral with an ethereal body, elegant and feminine. Giselle Hamburg

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $27.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur