Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
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Featured Articles
Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
A Smorgasbord of Burgs - 2021 Burgundies for all occasions!
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Whether you're looking for a special bottle for Sunday dinner or a solid Bourgogne Blanc to have on hand, we present a collection of wines from producers who are working organically and biodynamically in Burgundy, producing soulful and delicious wines from indigenous yeasts and healthy vineyards. The 2021 vintage is the primary focus today, as wines have finally begun trickling into the city. The trickling is of course due to a slim harvest, mostly due to very warm weather in the late winter of 2021 which encouraged bud growth, followed by a crippling frost around April 6th which was not so encouraging. There were other issues as well, and overall there was a lot of loss in '21, but the wines that were produced are graceful, and in our opinion, really lovely. Early on this got us thinking that we would have a very special "winemaker's vintage" like 2016, one that didn't necessarily receive big points but was ideal for acidity and long-term aging (many winemakers felt this way about '16 compared to the riper and more powerful and praised '15 vintage). There is some argument over whether '21 is as "good" as '16 for aging, but it's clear that it's the first vintage since '16 with similar brightness and lightness across the board, giving us pure, aromatic Pinot Noirs and perfectly balanced Chardonnays. The wines are effortlessly charming and approachable and we're very happy to have some in stock. So read on, or just skip to the wines if you're in a hurry!
The Producers
Morey-Coffinet was founded in the late 1970s by Michel Morey and his wife Fabienne Coffinet, and is now run by their son, Thibault. Though Michel only officially retired in 2021, Thibault has been active in the direction of the domaine since the early 2000s, getting rid of herbicides in 2002 and eventually receiving organic certification. He has been applying biodynamic principles and treatments as well, and lowering SO2 use in the cellar significantly. The wines have attracted a lot of attention for their purity, and Thibault has garnered quite a bit of respect among his peers for his approach in the cellar and his passion for the vineyards and the local terroir. Known as a Montrachet family, their village wines are not to be missed, as the Bourgogne Blanc for example comes from a less than a hectare site in the village of Chassagne, and is by no means "basic."
The Bachelet brothers
Marc and Alexandre Bachelet started Domaine Bachelet-Monnot in 2005, with vineyards that were either owned or leased by their father (Bachelet) and their uncle (Monnot). Another domaine famous for their whites, with most of their holdings in Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet, the Bachelet brothers have also impressed the world with their reds from Maranges and Santenay (sorry no reds today, hopefully later this year!). They are practiing organic, and do not use any herbicides, with all fruit harvested by hand, and all fermentations with wild yeasts.
Though anyone would agree it would be nice to inherit vineyards in Puligny Montrachet, many winemakers in Burgundy have had to go about things in a different way!
Seiichi Saito
Seiichi Saito from Domaine Petit-Roy arrived in Beaune from Japan in 2006 to study viticulture. Over the next ten years, he spent time working with a string of outstanding domaines, including Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, Domaine Lefalive, Armand Rousseau and a long stint at Simon Bize. Today he is making and bottling a range of regional and village-level appellations, farming some vines himself biodynamically and purchasing others. Like a lot of producers who have emerged over the last few years, Seiichi has found a balance between individual style and respect for terroir. The wines generally reflect an airy, forward style, juicy and quenching, even as each bottling shows real individual character. We're really excited to have a lineup of his '21s. Given his style and delicate touch with such a beautiful and balanced vintage, the wines should be fantastic!
Another project that was started from scratch is Chantereves, started by Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott in 2010. Like Seiichi at Petit-Roy, they have developed relationships with specific growers and vineyards in Burgundy, while slowly acquiring some sites that they farm on their own.
Guillaume Bott and Tomoko Kuriyama
Tomoko is from Japan, and first came to Burgundy in 2005 to apprentice at Domaine Simon Bize, where she met Guillaume, who was cellar master at Bize (he has continued with this role even with the creation of the Chantereves project). Guillaume is from Burgundy, studied and apprenticed close to home, and spent most of his formative years after school at Domaine Simon Bize, working alongside Patrick (until his passing in 2016) and Chisa Bize. Guillaume and Tomoko strive to buy fruit from organic or biodynamically farmed vineyards, though some are not certified, and their approach in the cellar is always indigenous yeast fermentation, low SO2 additions, natural malo-lactic fermentation, and aging in old barrels, without batonnage. Though we wish we had more wine to offer today, we're happy to at least have some, considering how limited production was in 2021.
Julien Cruchandeau's stock is rising fast among Burgundy insiders. He has developed a reputation for thoughtful and careful work, in the vines and in the cellar, making wines that ultimately drink far above what one might expect from humble appellations.
Julien Cruchandeau
Formerly a musician (apparently a successful one too!), Julien has been farming vineyards in the Hauts-Côtes de Nuits since the early 2000s. Since 2011, he has been farming organically and without the use of chemical products. All harvesting is by hand, and all fermentations are with indigenous yeast. We first got word of Cruchandeau as one of a new generation of Burgundy winemakers to champion lesser known appellations, in particular through his work with the Aligoté grape in Bouzeron. Aubert De Villaine, one of the most famous proponents of the grape, offered Julien plantings from his massale selection, and the resulting wines seem to have coincided with a wave (if not a surge) of new respect and interest in this oft-overlooked cepage. It's funny that he would be known more for his Aligoté wines than his reds (!) but his red wines are consistently crunchy, bright-fruited and delicious expressions of Pinot Noir, especially in 2021.
Domaine Arlaud, led by the capable Cyprien Arlaud, is a humble estate based in Morey St. Denis.
Plowing at Domaine Arlaud
The vines are biodynamically farmed and horse-plowed. Cellar work has evolved from the early 2000s with less extraction and new oak, with the emphasis on balance and finesse. Over the last decade, the domaine has been on a roll! These are beautiful, emotionally-satisfying Burgundies for the table, with the poise and structure for long term cellaring.
Last but not least is Benoit Ente, just in case you felt we didn't have enough white Burgundy on offer! Benoit is from a Burgundy family, and learned winemaking at his family's estate from an early age, before setting off on his own in 1997. He farms 6 hectares of vines in Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet (and small holdings in Meursault), without use of herbicides or chemical products, and has favored using less new oak and mostly eliminated the practice of batonnage with his whites. We have barely anything from Ente today, and the Puligny is not cheap, but itis exceptional and should be a perfect wine in 2021.
From a 0.96-hectare parcel in the village of Chassagne, both the Santenay and Puligny sides, planted in 1988, 2001, and 2012. Aged in barrels, with 25% new for 10 months.
Les Frionnes is a Premier cru located south of the town of Gamay, between Saint Aubin and Chassagne Montrachet. Thibault Morey has good company here with neighbors like Lamy and Prudhon. Average vine age is 40 to 60 years old. The wine is aged for 10 months in 228 and 350 L oak barrels, 30% new and 70% two-year-old barrels.
Importer note from Martine's Wines: "From a well-situated plot, this 0.13-hectare parcel of vines was planted in 1996 at the top of the vineyard and is located on the Chassagne side. There is no trimming on this site and it is plowed by horse. Aged 16 months in 350 L oak barrels, 50% new. Unfiltered."
Importer note from Martine's Wines: "Historically, one of the great sites for Pinot Noir in Chassagne, owned primarily by the Pillot family. From a 0.2 hectare parcel planted in 1978. Aged 14 months in 228 L oak barrels, 50% new. Unfiltered."
Seichii's Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc is from a small vineyard in the village of Nantoux, slightly north-west of Pommard. The vineyard is biodynamically farmed and harvest is by hand with careful selection. Aging is in barrel for about a year, and bottling is without fining or filtration and with a minimal addition of SO2.
Importer tech info: "Located on the southern end of Beaune, bordering the 1er Crus, on mostly clay soils. 40-year-old vines. Produced in two tanks, whole cluster in one tank, 100% destemmed in another. Three-week maceration. Aged 12 months on lees in stainless steel."
Importer tech note: "From two plots planted in 1980 totaling .45 hectares. The grapes are partly destemmed, followed by cold maceration for ten days and by vatting for 3 to 6 weeks and frequent pumping over. Aged between 12 and 15 months in oak barrels (20% new)."
From Grand Cru Selctions website: "A representative blend of the commune, with grapes from five parcels that have feet in all of the geographic zones. The vines total just over six acres and the parcels are La Canière, Le Chêne, Les Benoîtes, Le Pot Bois, and En Journoblot. Average age of vines is 25 years old."
The Puligny-Montrachet from the Bachelet brothers comes from small holdings in several parcels, namely Les Meix, Corvée des Vignes, Noyer Bret, and Les Houlières. Vines are all at least 30 years old, with some older vines. Aging is in barrel, with 20% new, for a year, followed by 6 months in tank before bottling.
In 2021, this lovely Bourgogne Blanc was sourced from vineyards in the village of Maranges, though the bottling was previously sourced from several different vineyards, including in Beaujolais. The vintage for whites was one of their favorites at the domaine, and they bottled with no additions of SO2 only in 2021 for this wine. Fermentation was with indigenous yeast, with aging in neutral oak barrels, and no batonnage. This is a young Chardonnay with a lot of potential but equally charming in the moment. Notes of lemon and stone fruit on the palate, unmistakable acidity and mineral length on the finish. Even for a Bourgogne Blanc, this seems like it will have a really nice future ahead of it! If drinking now, decant and don't serve too cold.
This Bourgogne Rouge is sourced from vines planted in the 1970s in sandy granite soils near Maranges or prior in the (Paris l'Hôpital) and partly from vines around Puligny-Montrachet planted in the 1950s, in limestone and marl. Grapes were fermented whole cluster, and wine was aged for just under a year in neutral oak barrels.
Paris L'Hopitâl is one of the few parcels in the lineup farmed by Guillaume and Tomoko. The vines start at about forty-five years old, planted on a combination of sand and granite (unusual for Burgundy!), and the soil is untilled as the site is prone to erosion. Like all of their reds, this is fermented 100% whole cluster.
One of the wines responsible for the Aligote renaissance, Julien Cruchandeau's Bouzeron is a reference point! The vines are massale selections from the vineyards of Domaine de Villaine and average more than 60 years old. 10% of the wine is aged in new barrels (from the Forêt de Fontaine in Bouzeron!) and the majority of the wine is aged in tank. The result is shockingly good!
Importer tech note: "Located at the northern end of the Côtes de Nuits, below the 1er Cru La Micaude, and planted in 1974. 30% whole cluster. Maceration at a low temperature for the first ten days. Fermented in vats, then aged for 12 months with fine lees in oak casks, 10% new."
Domaine Arlaud is a certified Biodynamic estate based in Morey St. Denis. Their 'Roncevie' bottling is a hidden gem of a Bourgogne Rouge that comes from a lieu-dit that until 1964 was classified as Gevrey-Chambertin Villages. In fact, half of the parcel is still Gervrey-Chambertin Villages, but the other half was declassified, due to some bureaucratic hullabaloo. The vines are around 70 years old, and are located just next to Griottes-Chambertin. Fermentation is with indigenous yeast, and the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. The color is a beautiful garnet in the glass, and there is immediate alluring spice on the nose. On the palate, it's graceful but also shows some meatiness in the mid-palate, with a floral and delicate finish.
This Bourgogne Blanc, from vineyards around Puligny Montrachet, is sourced from five parcels planted between 1995 and 2013. It's an admittedly great wine for an admittedly higher price than many other Bourgogne Blancs, but it does not disappoint.
From seven parcels in the appellation, including Les Tremblots and Les Houlieres, which border Chassagne. The oldest parcel was planted in 1943. This is an examplary Puligny Montrachet, always very impressive with its precision and density in youth, and well worthy of aging.
This is the one red that Benoit Ente makes, from vines planted in 1975 and 1998. The wine is aged in barrel, with very minimal new oak, for a year, and then in tank for 6 months for clarification so it can be bottled without filtration.
